If you have low water pressure it can cause low / slow water production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need a water pressure tester. If you are using city water, you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different booster pumps if your home water pressure is low.

*Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

To test whether you have high or low pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the below instructions:

Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
Step 2 - Remove the blue cap underneath the label on your tank to reveal the Schrader valve.
Step 3 - Check the air pressure using a digital air pressure gauge for best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

If you have a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to verify it is still in place and has not been removed. Otherwise, you will need to replace it.

Step 1 - Turn off your incoming water and ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve pressure on the system.
Step 3 - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step 4 - Once you no longer hear any water running down the drain, remove the red drain line from the membrane housing and inspect the end of the tube.

24 GPD Membrane - You should see a red cap (WP622052) with a small offset hole inside the end of the tube.
36 GPD Membrane - You should see a orange cap (WP622053) with a small offset hole inside the end of the tube.
50 GPD Membrane - You should see a green cap (WP622055) with a small offset hole inside the end of the tube.

Issue 1 - If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

A damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. Before beginning the ASOV test, check the air pressure in your tank and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, follow the below steps to test your ASOV. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, then follow one of the 2 tests below depending on whether you have a tank ball valve or a tank tee on your 4SV System.

Tank Ball Valve

Option 1 - To quickly test the ASOV

Step 1 - Turn the system on and run the RO faucet until you hear the water going down the drain.
Step 2 - Close the faucet and turn off the tank valve on top of the tank.
Step 3 - Wait 2 to 5 minutes for the draining to stop. If the draining stops, more than likely there is an issue with the tank pressure or the filters. If the system does NOT stop draining after 5 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Issue 1 - If the draining stops, there may be an issue with the tank pressure or the filters.
Issue 2 - If the draining does NOT stop after 10 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel
Ꙩ Measuring Cup

Option 2 - Test the production of the membrane

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply and the tank ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve system pressure.
Step 3 - Remove the blue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply; with the tank valve turned off you should see water trickling from the blue tube.
Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.

Note - You should collect the below amounts of water based on the membrane size you have installed in your system.

24 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 2 to 3 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.
36 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 3 to 4 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.
50 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 4 to 6 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.

Issue 1- If you collect less than your membrane’s water collection rate, this is an indicator that you will need to replace your filters and/or membrane.
Issue 2- If you get more than your membrane’s water collection rate you may need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Step 6 - Reinstall the blue tube to the tank and turn on the incoming water.

Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. The listed amounts are based upon the suggested incoming water pressure of 60 psi. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

Tank Tee

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the system.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet until the tank is drained completely.
Step 3 - Remove the blue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply. You should see water trickling from the blue tube.
Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.

Note - You should collect the below amounts of water based on the membrane size you have installed in your system.

24 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 2 to 3 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.
36 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 3 to 4 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.
50 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 4 to 6 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.

Issue 1- If you collect less than your membrane’s water collection rate, this is an indicator that you will need to replace your filters and/or membrane.
Issue 2- If you get more than your membrane’s water collection rate you may need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Step 6 - Reinstall the blue tube to the tank and turn on the incoming water.

Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. The listed amounts are based upon the suggested incoming water pressure of 60 psi. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

If you have air in the system, it can cause milky colored water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a reverse osmosis system. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

To check whether or not you have low water pressure, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

With high water pressure make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 100 psi. If it does, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test for a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

A damaged ASOV (automatic shut-off valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. To test for a damaged ASOV you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel or Bowl
Ꙩ Wire Brush or Hanger

Your black drain tube may be clogged if you have water leaking from the air-gap faucet vent. Before beginning any test, you will need to verify your drain is not clogged, and that your flow restrictor is installed.

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
Step 2 - Place a towel or bowl under the drain line to catch any excess water and detach the ⅜" black drain line from the drain saddle.
Step 3 - Clean it with either a wire brush or hanger.
Step 4 - Examine the drain saddle installation and make sure it is installed in the correct location and direction. The drain saddle must be installed at least 1 ½” above the nut of the p-trap elbow or cross bar from the garbage disposal to ensure proper drainage.

Step a - Reinstall the drain saddle to the correct location.
Step b - Replace the previous drain pipe so that no leak is present. The opening on drain saddle should be pointing toward the faucet providing a straight line for the black drain tube.
Step c - Turn the drain pipe so that the drain saddle is correctly pointing towards the faucet.

Step 5 - Re-attach the ⅜" black drain line and make sure it is inserted ¾" inside of the drain saddle. It must be as SHORT and STRAIGHT as possible to the drain saddle, making a downward slope from faucet to allow for proper drainage. This is a gravity fed line and if there are any bends or dips in the tube, the rinse water will not flow into the drain properly. Water may back up and come out the air gap hole in the back of the faucet. If necessary, you can use any food grade lubricant (i.e. olive oil) water soluble lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly^®) or other water based lubricants may be used.

Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline^®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

You can bypass the air-gap on any of  Premiers Air-Gap Faucets. Before beginning the air-gap bypass you will need to check the air pressure in your tank and, ensure the ASOV is functioning properly. Follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

Note – Installation must comply with all state and local plumbing regulations. By making these alterations it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure you are meeting these regulations.

Items required for Installation:

Ꙩ Double Check Valve (WP610019)
Ꙩ ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037)

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
Step 2 - Cut the red & black tubing approximately 4" from the bottom of the reverse osmosis Faucet.
Step 3 - Cut the ⅜” black tube approximately 6" from the drain saddle.
Step 4 - Use the ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037) to connect the ¼” red tubing from the reverse osmosis system to the ⅜” black tubing from the drain saddle.
Step 5 - Cut the ¼” red tube and install the Double Check Valve (WP610019) ensuring the flow arrow is pointing towards the drain saddle.
Step 6 - Start-Up your reverse osmosis system and check for any leaks.

Please be aware that in the event you encounter an issue involving water constantly running in the future (i.e. damaged ASOV, high or low pressure in the tank, etc.) you will be less likely to hear it.

When starting up your system, whether it is for the first time or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

To check whether or not you have low water pressure, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

If the faucet has developed a drip it can be corrected by following the steps outlined below:

Step 1 -

Tank Ball Valve - Turn off the incoming water to the system and close the ball valve. Open the RO faucet to depressurize the system.
Tank Tee - Turn off the incoming water to the system. Open the RO faucet until the tank is drained completely.

Step 2 - Remove the faucet spout.
Step 3 - Position both thumbs on the back edge of the lever and push forward.
Step 4 - The lever will slide forward and completely off the faucet base.
Step 5 - Turn the small brass tee a ½ turn counterclockwise to adjust the tension on the black lever. This adjustment may be necessary to stop slow drips from the tip of the faucet. You may need to repeat the process until the faucet does not drip any further. The brass tee must always end up facing across the body of the faucet in order to slide the black lever on.

If your housings are not tightened properly it can cause a leak from your housing. Verify that the housings are tightened correctly. If you are still experiencing a leak you will need to check for kinked, damaged, dry or missing o-rings.

Step 1 - Place a towel under the RO System to catch any excess water.
Step 2 -

Tank Ball Valve - Turn off the incoming water to the system and close the ball valve. Open the RO faucet to depressurize the system.
Tank Tee - Turn off the incoming water to the system. Open the RO faucet until the tank is drained completely.

Step 3 - Remove the filter housings and check each o-ring. If any of the o-rings are kinked you will need to replace them.
Step 4 - Make sure the o-rings are seated in the filter housing properly before re-installing the filter housing. Use any food grade lubricant (i.e. olive oil), water soluble lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly^®) or other water based lubricants may be used.

Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline^®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can cause damage.

During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™, if you used PTFE thread seal tape on the fitting, you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was tightened with a wrench rather than hand tightened, this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not, you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

Disconnect and inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the tubing is damaged, you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to, then you will need to replace it.

Your reverse osmosis system is connected directly to the main water supply. If the main water supply is turned off,  you will have no water flowing into your system. Verify your main water supply is turned on and there is water.

The 4SV Reverse Osmosis System is equipped with a standard faucet. There is no monitoring on this faucet. To install follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Feed both the red and black tubing through the pre-drilled hole in the sink / counter until faucet is seated.

Step 2 - Under the sink, slide the following items onto the threaded faucet stem in the following order: (1) the slotted metal washer; (2) the plastic sleeve with the open end up; (3) the plain washer; (4) the hex nut washer and (5) secure it with the hex nut.

Step 3 - Locate the ¼”  blue tube attached to the RO module labeled 'Faucet'. Remove a brass nut, plastic sleeve and brass insert from the faucet parts bag. To assemble, place the brass nut on the blue tube first, then the sleeve (small tapered end of sleeve must point to the end of tube) and then push the brass insert all the way into the end of the tube.

Step 4 - Insert the ¼”  blue tube into the end of the faucet shank and use a wrench to tighten the brass nut securely.

After completing the successful installation of your Standard Faucet, Adapt-A-Valve™ and Drain Saddle you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier 4SV RO. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your new Reverse Osmosis System up and running.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” green tube attached to the RO Module. Insert the open end of the ¼” green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

Step 2 - Determine the best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. Using the mounting holes on the bracket, mark the location for the mounting screws on the cabinet wall under the sink. In the parts bag, locate the two self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet at the marked location. Hang the module on the screws using the mounting holes in the bracket. Note - Do not cut any RO System tubes at this time.

Step 3 - Using the white plastic union found in the parts bag, determine where the ¼” red tube from the RO faucet and the ¼” red tube from the RO membrane housing would join together comfortably. Cut the red tube from RO faucet to length leaving a straight cut edge. Insert the red tube from RO faucet in one end of the white plastic union and the red tube from RO membrane housing in the other end. Use a ⅝” wrench to tighten both of the white plastic nuts securely.

The Flow Restrictor is inside of the red tube installed at the membrane elbow. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

Step 4 - PTFE thread seal tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

Step 5 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

Step 6 - Position the tank in the desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary (check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

Step 4 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as arsenic, chromium, cryptosporidium, or giardia. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of lead and copper. This Premier 4SV Reverse Osmosis System has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your reverse osmosis system is a five stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

	Stage 1 - Five Micron Sediment Filter (WP104017) traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt, and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 2 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (WP101009) helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 3 - 50 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO Membrane (WP560018). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as chromium, arsenic, copper, lead as well as cysts, such as giardia and cryptosporidium. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommend changing every 3 to 5 years.
	Stage 4 - In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (WP560010). This filter is used after the water storage tank, and is used as a final polishing filter. GAC filters are used to remove chemicals that give objectionable odors or tastes to water such as hydrogen sulfide (rotten eggs odor) or chlorine. Note - Recommend changing every 12 months.

Annual Four-Stage Filter Kit - WP560032 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP104017) and two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009).

Bi-Annual Carbon Block Premium Filter Kit w/10" Inline - WP560067 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter, (WP104017), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010).

Membrane - Your membrane (WP560018) is only changed every 3 to 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the reverse osmosis system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS).

TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS Meters available for purchase as well as a TDS Calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a bi-annual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

Step 3 - With the RO faucet in the closed position, turn on the incoming water supply to the system by turning the Adapt-A-Valve™ counter clockwise. Let the unit fill with water (approximately 8 minutes) allowing the bleach to dilute.

Step 4 - Let the system sit idle for 1 minute.

Step 5 - Drain the system completely.

Step 6 - Let the system fill again (approximately 8 minutes) and sit idle for 10 minutes before draining the system again.

Step 7 - Turn off the incoming water at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the faucet to make sure all the water has been drained.

Step 8 - Open the membrane housing and re-install the RO membrane while making sure not to kink the o-rings. Refer to the Membrane Replacement section. Tighten the cap back on the housing and reconnect the green tubing.

Step 9 - Remove both Filter Housings and empty water. Note - Before re-installing the Filter Housings back onto the system, check the O-Rings to make sure they are still in place. Lubricate with Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage

Step 10 - Insert the new Sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the first Filter Housing, which is the one on the water inlet side (Green tubing from the Adapt-A-Valve™) of the RO system and re-install the Filter Housing. Repeat this these steps for the second Filter Housing using a new Carbon Block Filter.

Step 11 - The in-line final filter is located on the blue tube between the storage tank and the RO faucet. Remove it by loosening the compression fittings on both ends of the filter and replace with a new filter (discard the used final filter after sanitizing). Note - The arrow on the final filter must be pointing toward the RO faucet / away from the RO storage tank.

Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the Schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the reverse osmosis system.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

Step 3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results a digital air pressure gauge or tire pressure gauge is recommended.

Step 4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to re-pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) prior to re-pressurizing your tank.

Note - If there is air and sputtering coming from the faucet or water coming out of the Schrader valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

Step 5 - Start up your system. See Installations for instructions.

To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave, turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer. To restart your reverse osmosis system, follow the below steps:

Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 4 - Close the RO faucet, allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

Step 5 - After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.