To test whether you have high or low pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the below instructions:

Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
Step 2 - Remove the blue cap underneath the label on your tank to reveal the Schrader valve.
Step 3 - Check the air pressure using a digital air pressure gauge for best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all of the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

If you had a prior reverse osmosis system, make sure that you did not use the old Adapt-A-Valve™ from the prior system. Install the Adapt-A-Valve™ which was supplied with your new RO system, or purchase a new one.

Verify that your pump assembly is working properly. Perform the tests to check your electrical components.

If you have air in the system, it can cause milky colored water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a reverse osmosis system. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

With high water pressure make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 85 psi. If it does, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?).

If you have a missing or bad flow restrictor, verify your flow restrictor is still in place and has not been removed. If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

A faulty pressure switch can cause your pump to run continually. To test, close the ball valve on your tank, then open the faucet for a few seconds to depressurize the system, then close it. The pump should activate; wait a minute or two for the unit to turn off and the pump should stop running. If the unit does not stop running, then verify that your pump assembly is working properly. Follow the step-by-step instructions located in (Why Won't the Pump Turn On?) to check your other electrical components.

When starting up your system, whether it is for the first time or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?).

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?).

If your housings are not tightened properly it can cause a leak from your housing. Verify that the housings are tightened correctly. If you are still experiencing a leak you will need to check for kinked, damaged, dry or missing o-rings.

Step 1 - Place a towel under the RO System to catch any excess water.
Step 2 -

Tank Ball Valve - Turn off the incoming water to the system and close the ball valve. Open the RO faucet to depressurize the system.
Tank Tee - Turn off the incoming water to the system. Open the RO faucet until the tank is drained completely.

Step 3 - Remove the filter housings and check each o-ring. If any of the o-rings are kinked, you will need to replace them.
Step 4 - Make sure the o-rings are seated in the filter housing properly before re-installing the filter housing. Use any food grade lubricant (i.e. olive oil), water soluble lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly^®) or other water based lubricants.

Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline^®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can cause damage.

If you are receiving hot water from your reverse osmosis system, then the RO system is too close to the hot water heater. Make sure the system is at least 25 pipe feet away from the hot water heater.

During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™, if you used PTFE thread seal tape on the fitting, you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was tightened with a wrench rather than hand tightened, this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not, you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

Disconnect and inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the tubing is damaged, you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to, then you will need to replace it.

The booster pump will vibrate causing the pump to vibrate against adjacent objects when not in the optimum location. Make sure the pump is tight against the bracket.

If the pump has been damaged it will need to be replaced.

You may not have power to the outlet. Make sure the electrical outlet is not controlled by the garbage disposal switch. If so, switch to a different outlet.

The transformer may be burned out due to the pump trying to pull extra amperage because of clogged filters. If the pump is not working, test the transformer to make sure it is outputting 24 volts, if it doesn't, replace the transformer. If a volt tester is not available, disconnect the transformer from the pressure switch and test it by connecting it directly to the pump and then the solenoid. If the pump does not run then the pump may be bad. Test your solenoid the same way; it should click for only a second confirming it's working. Should both the solenoid and pump not receive power then you may have a bad transformer.

Make sure all electrical connections are connected securely and not loose. These connections would include the controller, wire harness, and solenoid.

An unpleasant taste can come from not changing your filters on time. Performing the annual sanitization during the annual maintenance will help eliminate the unpleasant taste in the water.

If your reverse osmosis system has not been in use for an extended period of time (more than 2 months) and you have not performed the procedure for extended non-use prior to your absence, then you will need to replace all filters and sanitize your system.

If the faucet has developed a drip, it can be corrected by following the steps outlined below:

Step 1 - Remove the faucet spout first. Position both thumbs on the back edge of the lever and push forward.

Step 2 - Lever will slide forward and completely off of the faucet base.

Step 3 - Small brass tee can be turned ½ turn, counterclockwise, to adjust the tension on the black lever. This adjustment may be necessary to stop slow drips from tip of faucet. You may need to repeat the process until the faucet does not drip. Brass tee must always end up facing across body of faucet in order to slide black lever on.

The reverse osmosis system flushes out the waste/brine water to the hot water Adapt-A-Valve™ under the sink. If this Adapt-A-Valve™ to the hot water outlet is turned off,  this can cause your membrane to go bad, clog your filters, and create higher TDS levels. Verify the Adapt-A-Valve™ is turned on and the pump is working properly.

For marble counter tops we recommend contacting a qualified contractor for drilling a hole. Most sinks are pre-drilled with a 1 ¼" diameter hole that you can use for your RO faucet (if you are already using it for a sprayer or soap dispenser, see Step #1 below). Porcelain sinks are extremely hard and can crack or chip easily. Use extreme caution when drilling. Watts accepts no responsibility for damage resulting from the installation of the faucet. A diamond tip bit is recommended.

The ZeroWaste^® Reverse Osmosis System is equipped with a standard faucet. There is no monitoring on this faucet. To install, follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Place the escutcheon chrome plate and the black rubber washer on the faucet shank.

Step 2 - Insert the faucet shank through the hole in the sink and let it rest on the sink top.

Step 3 - From the underside of the sink, slide on the locating washer, lock washer, and brass nut onto the shank. Check the orientation of the faucet then tighten the brass nut securely.

Step 4 - Locate the ¼” blue tube attached to the RO module labeled “Faucet”. Remove a brass nut, plastic sleeve, and brass insert from the parts bag. To assemble, place the brass nut on the blue tube first, then the sleeve (small tapered end of sleeve must point to the end of tube), and then push the brass insert all the way into the end of the tube.

Step 5 - Insert the ¼” blue tube into the end of the faucet shank and use a wrench to tighten the brass nut securely.

After completing the successful installation of your non-air-gap faucet and Adapt-A-Valve™, you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier ZeroWaste^® Reverse Osmosis. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your new reverse osmosis system up and running.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” green tube attached to the RO Module. Insert the open end of the ¼” green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

Step 2 - Determine the best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. Using the mounting holes on the bracket, mark the location for the mounting screws on the cabinet wall under the sink. In the parts bag, locate the two self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet at the marked location. Hang the module on the screws using the mounting holes in the bracket. Note - Do not cut any RO system tubes at this time.

Step 3 - Using the white plastic union found in the parts bag, determine where the ¼” red tube from the RO faucet and the ¼” red tube from the RO membrane housing would join together comfortably. Cut the red tube from the RO faucet to length, leaving a straight cut edge. Insert the red tube from RO faucet in one end of the white plastic union and the red tube from RO membrane housing in the other end. Use a ⅝” wrench to tighten both of the white plastic nuts securely.

The Flow Restrictor is inside of the red tube installed at the Membrane elbow. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

Step 4 - Locate the ¼” green tube attached to the RO Module. Insert the open end of the ¼” green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve, making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

Step 5 - PTFE thread seal tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

Step 6 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

Step 7 - Position the tank in the desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary (check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step 4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker, so it can easily be closed, to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature, and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling, which is a normal occurrence.

Step 4 - After the storage tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as arsenic, and chromium. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of lead and copper. This Premier ZeroWaste^® Reverse Osmosis System has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your reverse osmosis system is a five stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

	Stage 1 - Five micron sediment filter (WP104017) traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt, and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 2 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (WP101009) helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 3 - 50 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO Membrane (WP560014). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, Sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as chromium, arsenic, copper, and lead. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommend changing every 3 to 5 years.
	Stage 4 - In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (WP560010). This filter is used after the water storage tank, and is used as a final polishing filter. GAC filters are used to remove chemicals that give objectionable odors or tastes to water such as hydrogen sulfide (rotten eggs odor), or chlorine. Note - Recommend changing every 12 months.

Annual Four-Stage Filter Kit - WP560032 This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP104017) and two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009).

Bi-Annual RV Filter Kit WP560038 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter, (WP104017), and one Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009).

Membrane - Your membrane (WP560014) is only changed every 3 to 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the reverse osmosis system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).

TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS meters available for purchase as well as a TDS calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a bi-annual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

Step 3 - With the RO faucet in the closed position, turn on the incoming water supply to the system by turning the Adapt-A-Valve™ counter clockwise. Let the unit fill with water (approximately 8 minutes), allowing the bleach to dilute.

Step 4 - Let the system sit idle for 1 minute.

Step 5 - Drain the system completely.

Step 6 - Let the system fill again (approximately 8 minutes) and sit idle for 10 minutes before draining the system again.

Step 7 - Turn off the incoming water at the Adapt-A-Valve™, and open the faucet to make sure all of the water has been drained.

Step 8 - Open the membrane housing and re-install the RO membrane while making sure not to kink the o-rings. Refer to the Membrane Replacement section. Tighten the cap back on the housing and reconnect the green tubing.

Step 9 - Remove both filter housings and empty the water. Note - Before re-installing the filter housings back onto the system, check the o-rings to make sure they are still in place. Lubricate with a food grade lubricant (i.e. olive oil), water soluble lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®), or other water based lubricants. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

Step 10 - Insert the new sediment filter (cloth-like appearance) into the first filter housing, which is the one on the water inlet side (green tubing from the Adapt-A-Valve™) of the RO system, and re-install the filter housing. Repeat this these steps for the second filter housing using a new carbon block filter.

Step 11 - The in-line final filter is located on the blue tube between the storage tank and the RO faucet. Remove it by loosening the compression fittings on both ends of the filter and replace with a new filter (discard the used, final filter, after sanitizing). Note - The arrow on the final filter must be pointing toward the RO faucet / away from the RO storage tank.

Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the Schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank, behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the reverse osmosis system.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

Step 3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge; it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results, a digital air pressure gauge or tire pressure gauge is recommended.

Step 4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to re-pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker), prior to re-pressurizing your tank.

Note - If there is air and sputtering coming from the faucet, or water coming out of the Schrader valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

Step 5 - Start up your system. See installations for instructions.

To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave, follow the below steps to ensure your RO System will perform as it did prior to you leaving.

Step 1 - Unplug transformer from electrical outlet.

Step 2 - Turn off the hot and cold water valves to your RO system and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all the filter cartridges (order not important). Place the filters into a sealed plastic bag and store in the refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer.

To restart your reverse osmosis system follow the below steps:

Step 3 - Reinstall all filters onto the reverse osmosis system.

Step 4 - Turn on the incoming hot and cold water angle stop valves.

Step 5 - Turn both of the Adapt-A-Valves™ on and check the system for leaks and tighten fittings as necessary. Note - Check daily over the next week to ensure no leaks are present.

Step 6 - Plug the transformer into the electrical outlet.

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 7 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 8 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

Step 9 - After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.