If your hot water recirculating pump does not have power to it, the time will not reset once the power is restored. Check the power supply to the pump as well as the timer settings.

If after checking the power supply and timer settings you find there is no change In the hot water delivery time, check the pumps directional flow, water supply angle stops, as well as the water temperature in the piping 2 feet after the pump.

If after 24 hours there is no change in your temperature (after completing all system checks), your piping network may be run too long, not allowing the bypass to take place. Install a second valve near or in parallel with the first one.

Your instant hot water recirculating pump has a timer on it, if that timer ring is not set to the current time of day you will not receive instant hot water. Adjust the timer programming ring to the current time of day. Note - Do not set the time by rotating the outer dial. To set the current time, turn the minute hand clockwise. Turn the minute hand clockwise until the time of day on the outer dial is aligned with the triangle marker on the inner dial. For example, for 10:30PM, turn the minute hand clockwise until 10:30PM is aligned with the triangle on the inner dial. The hour and the minute dial will show exactly 10:30. See photo below.

Make sure the manual switch is not set to off. If it is, you will not receive instant hot water. Adjust the manual switch to the timer position or on mode. See illustration above.

If there are too many programming tabs pushed toward the center of the timer ring, this is an indication that the timer is off. Adjust the programming tabs toward the outer portion of the timer ring for the desired run times. The 24-hour dial has quarter-hour division tabs plus AM/PM indications. Set the required on/off times on the programming ring by pushing the tabs away from, or toward, the center of the ring. Tabs pushed away from the center ring indicate the circulator is switched on, while tabs pushed toward the center ring indicate circulator is switched off. The circulator will now start/stop according to the settings of the programming tabs.

The sensor valve does not open up until the temperature is above 96°F(36°C). If the hot water does not reach a temperature above 96°F(36°C), if your hot water is losing heat through your piping on it's way, this can cause the valve not to shut off. Check your insulation on your hot water supply line to ensure it has not been damaged over time or that there is enough insulation. Also try increasing the temperature of your heater/boiler.

Depending on your piping network size, hot water tank, and water usage, not enough time may have passed for the system to stabilize. Depending on each of these factors, you may have to wait up to 30 minutes or longer. You can set your hot water recirculating pump to start 15 to 30 minutes earlier to compensate if necessary.

There is a possibility that your bypass valve may have failed. Follow the instructions below to test the operation of your bypass valve.

There is a possibility that you have no water flow coming through the bypass valve. Verify the sensor valve is installed correctly. The valve can be installed vertically or horizontally, however it must be installed facing the correct direction as shown in the below illustration. Make sure all connections are tight.

If you have hot water on one end of the house, but not the other, it is possible that you have a branched hot water supply. You will need to install an additional sensor valve at the other end of the house.

If after completing the above troubleshooting steps your water does not get hot in 10 seconds or more, check to see if you have uninsulated piping or long runs of piping on a concrete foundation. If so, then you may require adding an additional valve or installing valves in parallel to increase the flow rate and reduce temperature drop.

If the timer's manual switch is set to the on position the pump will run 24/7. Adjust the timer manual switch from the on position to the timer position. Then adjust the programming tabs for desired run times.

When you have too many programming tabs pushed to the on position this will cause the pump to run more often, increasing the likelihood of receiving hot water in the cold water supply line. To best address this, reduce the number of programming tabs in the on position; modulating the pump on and off may help (i.e. 30 minutes before the first shower until 15 minutes after last shower).

There is a possibility that you may have a bypass valve failure. Follow the steps to test for the failure of your bypass valve.

If you find that after going through the above tests you are still getting hot water in your cold water supply, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. When the pump is installed and the hot water is turned on, the pump flushes all the cold water out of the lines by sending it out the through the bypass valve. The valve closes when the water temperature is over 96°F(36°C). It opens back up when the water gets below 80°F(27°C). Due to this, if your hot water is losing heat through your piping on it's way, this can cause the valve to not close. Check your insulation on your hot water supply line to ensure it has not been damaged over time or that there is enough insulation.

Check for defective single handle faucets and/or defective mixing valves in showers.

If none of these solutions have worked for you, increase the temperature in your hot water tank/boiler. If the temperature of the water is not hot enough it will not shut off the bypass to the cold water line.

This condition usually presents itself at system pressures over 60 psi. To resolve this issue, remove the check valve from the cold water inlet to the valve using a pair of long-nose, needle-nose pliers.

Below is a diagram for installation with a 1" main from the hot water tank. We recommend you consult with your local plumber.

This could be caused by o-ring failure inside the pump. The connections use a standard ¾" house gasket and should be periodically replaced. We also recommend using new flex lines, as gaskets are usually supplied with them. Keep in mind there may be a need for dielectric unions when using dissimilar metals as this can lead to premature corrosion if not properly installed.

Before you begin your installation, for your safety, please ensure you have completed this step before moving on. For electric water heaters, turn OFF the power to your water heater at the breaker box. For gas water heaters, turn OFF the gas to your water heater and ensure that the pilot light is not burning.

Step #1 - Close the water supply valve to the water heater. This will be located, in most cases, above the water heater on the cold water inlet to the hot water heater.

Step #2 - Drain the water from the hot water pipe by opening a hot water faucet in the house. Let the water run until it stops flowing. Then, drain remaining water from the hot water heater spigot. Leave the faucet in the house open until the hot water recirculating pump Installation is complete. If the water does not stop flowing, check to make sure the water to the hot water heater has been completely shut-off.

Step #3 - Disconnect the hot water heater at the hot water discharge.

Step #4 - Install the hot water recirculating pump onto the water heater discharge using the ¾" female fitting. The pump should be installed so that it is pumping away from the hot water heater, toward the house. Confirm the direction of pumping by observing the flow arrow on the side of the pump housing. Be sure that the pump is not touching the exhaust vent piping (chimney) of a gas or oil fired hot water heater.

Step #5 - Connect the hot water line to the ¾" NPT discharge of the pump. Use pipe dope or teflon tape to seal threads when connecting to a ¾" female NPT connection. If a gasketed flexible copper water heater connector is used, pipe dope or teflon tape is not required.

Step #6 - Reopen the supply valve to the hot water heater and allow the water to run until all the air has been purged from the piping.

Step #7 - Close the faucet inside the house.

Step #8 - Plug the line cord of pump into a 115V outlet. Be sure to route the power cord so that it does not touch the exhaust vent piping of a gas or oil fired hot water heater.

Step #9 - Using the timer, set the pump to operate around your peak use times (i.e. 30 minutes before the first shower until 15 minutes after last shower).

Step #1 - Close both the hot and cold angle stop valves below the sink.

Step #2 - Place supplied rubber washers in the female end of the adapters. Attach the adapters to both the “cold water out” and “hot water out” ports of the sensor valve. Note - Do not over tighten. Finger tight plus a quarter turn with wrench.

Step #3 - Disconnect existing supply line connection from both hot and cold angle stop valves and then connect to the adapter, attach to the sensor valve.

Step #4 - Connect the new ½" x ⅜" flex hose to the hot water angle stop valve, ⅜" side and the “hot water in” port, ½" side of the sensor valve. Connect the remaining ½” x ⅜" flex hose to the cold water angle stop valve.

Step #5 - Open both the hot water and cold water angle stop valves.

Step #6 - If desired, the sensor valve can be mounted to the wall with the mounting screws. You can mount the sensor valve horizontally or vertically, but it must be facing the direction as shown below in the illustration.

Step #1 - Close both the hot and cold angle stop valves below the sink.

Step #2 - Place supplied rubber washers in the female end of the adapters. Attach the adapters to both the “cold water out” and “hot water out” ports of the sensor valve. Note - Do not over tighten. Finger tighten plus a quarter turn with wrench.

Step #3 - Disconnect the existing supply line connection from the faucet connection. Leave the angle stop valve connections in place. Take the disconnected end and attach the to the “hot water in” and “cold water in” connections respectively.

Step #4 - Connect the new ½" x ⅜" flex hose to the already installed adapter on sensor valve, ⅜" side and the faucet connection, ½" side for both the hot and cold water respectively.

Step #5 - Open both the hot and cold water angle stop valves.

Step #6 - If desired, the sensor valve can be mounted to the wall with the mounting screws. You can mount the sensor valve horizontally or vertically, but it must be facing the direction as shown below in the illustration.

If there is no hot water at the faucet, or there appears to be too much hot water on the cold water side, the following steps will determine if the valve is operating correctly:

Risk of electrical shock - This pump is supplied with a grounding conductor. To reduce the risk of electric shock, be certain that it is connected only to a properly grounded grounding type receptacle. The safe operation of this pump requires that it be grounded in accordance with the National Electrical Code and local governing codes and regulations. The operating voltage and other electrical data are marked on the motor label. Make sure that the motor is suitable for the electrical supply on which it will be used. Insert the 115V plug on the line cord from the pump into a properly grounded 115V outlet.

The timer control on is designed only for use with the Watts instant hot water recirculating system. It is specified for install on indoor hot water service systems only. The timer control is designed to turn the circulator on and off at preset times. Allowing the user to select operation of the circulator during high use periods of the day.

Before the circulator is started, the water system must be filled with water and drained. You can perform the install if you have drained a minimum of at least 2 to 3" of water. However, if you have NEVER drained the system or if it has been sometime since you last drained it you MUST drain the entire system prior to install.

The timer has three modes of operation controlled by a manual switch.

Mode #1 - The OFF position: no pumping - circulator off. The timer will still keep the time of day.

Mode #2 - TIMER position: Circulator controlled by programming tab settings "ON or OFF".

Mode #3 - ON position: Circulator in continuous pumping mode 24-hours/day 7-days a week.

Note - Do not set the time by rotating the outer dial. To set the current time, turn the minute hand clockwise. Turn the minute hand clockwise until the time of day on the outer dial is aligned with the triangle marker on the inner dial. For example, for 10:30 PM, turn the minute hand clockwise until 10:30 PM is aligned with the triangle on the inner dial. The hour and the minute dial will show exactly 10:30. See photo below.

24 hour (timer manual switch position) - The 24-hour dial has quarter-hour division tabs plus AM/PM indications. Set the required "ON/OFF" times on the programming ring by pushing the tabs away from, or toward, the center of the ring. Tabs pushed away from the center ring indicate circulator "ON", while tabs pushed toward the center ring indicate circulator is switched "OFF". The circulator will now start/stop according to the settings of the programming tabs.

Note - In case of power outage the timer will not keep time. Repeat time setting step when power is restored.