If you have low water pressure it can cause low / slow water production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need a water pressure tester. If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different booster pumps if your home water pressure is low.

*Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

To test whether you have high or low pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the below instructions:

Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
Step 2 - Remove the blue cap underneath the label on your tank to reveal the Schrader valve.
Step 3 - Check the air pressure using a digital air pressure gauge for best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

If you have a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to verify it is still in place and has not been removed. Otherwise, you will need to replace it.

Step 1 - Turn off your incoming water and ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve pressure on the system.
Step 3 - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step 4 - Once you no longer hear any water running down the drain, remove the red drain line from the membrane housing and inspect the end of the tube.

Issue 1 - If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

A damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. Before beginning the ASOV test, check the air pressure in your tank and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, follow the below steps to test your ASOV:

Option 1 - To quickly test the ASOV

Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on and turn the tank ball valve off.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and close it when you begin to hear water going down the drain.
Step 3 - Wait 4 to 7 minutes for the draining to stop.

Issue 1 - If the draining stops, there may be an issue with the tank pressure or the filters.
Issue 2 - If the draining does NOT stop after 10 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel
Ꙩ Measuring Cup

Option 2 - Test the production of the membrane

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply and the tank ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve system pressure.
Step 3 - *Disconnect the blue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply; with the tank valve turned off you should see water trickling from the blue tube.
Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.
Step 6 - You should have collected approximately 3 to 6 ounces of water once complete.

Issue 1 - If you are within 3 to 6 ounces then your ASOV is functioning properly.
Issue 2 - If you collect less than 3 ounces, check the filters and lid.
Issue 3 - If you get more than 8 ounces, you may need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).

Step 7 - Reinstall the blue tube to the tank.
Step 8 - Turn on the incoming water and tank ball valve. Check for leaks over the next few hours.

Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

You may have a clogged filter or lid, which can cause low / slow water production. First, check to see if the tank is functioning correctly and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass their tests, follow the steps below to determine whether the issue is one of the filters or the lid assembly.

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel
Ꙩ Bowl

Optional:

Ꙩ Pen or Screwdriver

Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on.
Step 2 - Turn the tank ball valve off and open the RO faucet so water will drip.
Step 3 - Remove the red Sediment Pre-filter (WP105311) and place the bowl underneath the system.
Step 4 - Use your finger or the back of a pen to depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 5. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

Step a - Turn off the incoming water and depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port to depressurize the system.
Step b - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step c - *Disconnect the green tube from behind the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311).
Step d - Hold the tube over the bowl and slowly turn the water on then off again.

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the green tube, then you will need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).
Issue 2 - If water does pass through the green tube, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).

Step 5 - Remove the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) and depress the valve in the center of the yellow filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 6. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

Step a - Exchange the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
Step b - Retest the flow from the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter port with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311).

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the yellow filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the yellow filter port, then the red Sediment Pre-Filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-filters at the same time (WP531102).

Step 6 - Remove the green Membrane (WP105331) and depress the valve in the center of the green filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to step 7. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

Step a - Exchange the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
Step b - Retest the flow from the green filter port with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351).

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the green filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the green filter port, then the yellow carbon pre-filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-Filters at the same time (WP531102).

Step 7 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure from the red, yellow and green filter ports during testing, perform the (ASOV Test) if you have not done so already.

Step a - If the ASOV test produced less than 3 to 6 ounces of water in 1 minute, exchange the green Membrane (WP105331) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
Step b - With the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the green Membrane (WP105331), depress the valve in the center of the blue filter port on the lid assembly.

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the blue filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, then the green Membrane (WP105331) is bad and will need to be replaced.

*Note - Diagram and instructions for using quick-connect fittings.

Disconnecting - Ensure the system is depressurized before removing the tube. Push in collet squarely against the face of the fitting. With the collet held in this position, the tube can be removed. The fitting can then be reused.

Connecting - Make certain to push the tubing completely into the connector until it comes into contact with the internal tubing stop. The collet (gripper) has stainless steel teeth which hold the tube firmly in position while the o-ring provides a permanent leak proof seal. Pull on the tube to check that it is secure. It is good practice to test the system prior to leaving the site and/or before use.

**Note - To replace the lid assembly (WP610051) you will need to contact our Tech Support Center at 1-800-752-5582.

***Note - When the green membrane is installed you will not have a high flow rate from the blue port as it uses the back pressure of the tank not the incoming water pressure. There should be a small trickle of water.

If you have air in the system, it can cause milky colored water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a reverse osmosis system. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

If you have low water pressure it can cause low / slow water production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need a water pressure tester. If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different booster pumps if your home water pressure is low.

*Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

With high water pressure, make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 100 psi. If it does, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test for a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

A damaged ASOV (automatic shut-off valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. To test for a damaged ASOV, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel or Bowl
Ꙩ Wire Brush or Hanger

Your black drain tube may be clogged if you have water leaking from the air-gap faucet vent. Before beginning any test you will need to verify your drain is not clogged, and that your flow restrictor is installed.

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
Step 2 - Place a towel or bowl under the drain line to catch any excess water and detach the ⅜" black drain line from the drain saddle.
Step 3 - Clean it with either a wire brush or hanger.
Step 4 - Examine the drain saddle installation and make sure it is installed in the correct location and direction. The drain saddle must be installed at least 1 ½” above the nut of the p-trap elbow or cross bar from the garbage disposal to insure proper drainage.

Step a - Reinstall the drain saddle to the correct location.
Step b - Replace the previous drain pipe so that no leak is present. The opening on drain saddle should be pointing towards the faucet providing a straight line for the black drain tube.
Step c - Turn the drain pipe so that the drain saddle is correctly pointing towards the faucet.

Step 5 - Re-attach the ⅜" black drain line and make sure it is inserted ¾" inside of the drain saddle. It must be as SHORT and STRAIGHT as possible to the Drain Saddle, making a downward slope from faucet to allow for proper drainage. This is a gravity fed line and if there are any bends or dips in the tube, the rinse water will not flow into the drain properly. Water may back up and come out the air gap hole in the back of the faucet. If necessary, you can use any Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly^®) or other water based lubricants may be used.

Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline^®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

You can by-pass the air-gap on any of Premiers Air-Gap Faucets. Before beginning the air-gap by-pass, you will need to check the air pressure in your tank and ensure the ASOV is functioning properly. Follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

Note – Installation must comply with all state and local plumbing regulations. By making these alterations it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure you are meeting these regulations.

Items required for Installation:

Ꙩ Double Check Valve (WP610019)
Ꙩ ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037)

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
Step 2 - Cut the red & black tubing approximately 4" from the bottom of the reverse osmosis faucet.
Step 3 - Cut the ⅜” black tube approximately 6" from the drain saddle.
Step 4 - Use the ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037) to connect the ¼” red tubing from the reverse osmosis system to the ⅜” black tubing from the drain saddle.
Step 5 - Cut the ¼” red tube and install the Double Check Valve (WP610019) ensuring the flow arrow is pointing towards the drain saddle.
Step 6 - Start-up your reverse osmosis system and check for any leaks.

Please be aware that in the event you encounter an issue involving water constantly running in the future (i.e. damaged ASOV, high or low pressure in the tank, etc.) you will be less likely to hear it.

If you have damaged, faulty or dried out o-ring on the lower faucet assembly ¼” blue tube, this can cause your faucet to leak. Lubricate the blue tube o-ring. If the leak persists, you will need to replace the lower faucet assembly.

When starting up your system, whether it is for the first time, or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

To check whether or not you have low water pressure, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™, if you used PTFE thread seal tape on the fitting, you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was tightened with a wrench rather than hand tightened this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not, you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

Disconnect and inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the tubing is damaged, you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to, then you will need to replace it.

For marble countertops we recommend contacting a qualified contractor for drilling a hole. Most sinks are pre-drilled with a 1 ¼" diameter hole that you can use for your RO faucet (if you are already using it for a sprayer or soap dispenser, see Step #1 below). Porcelain sinks are extremely hard and can crack or chip easily. Use extreme caution when drilling. Watts accepts no responsibility for damage resulting from the installation of the faucet. A diamond tip bit is recommended.

The RO Pure Faucet is equipped with quick connect fittings for easy tube installation. To connect tubes, simply push them firmly into their corresponding fitting on the RO faucet until fully seated. Note - Make sure the tube is inserted the full ¾” into the fitting. Follow the below steps to complete the installation.

Step 1 - In the parts bag, locate one ⅜” Stem x ¼” Quick connect fitting adapter, one ¼” red tube, one ¼” blue tube and one ⅜” black tube .

Step 2 - Insert the ⅜” Stem adapter into the ⅜” fitting located on the end of the toggle bolt assembly.

Step 3 - Connect the STRAIGHT END of the ¼” blue tube to the corresponding ¼” fitting adapter on the toggle bolt.

Step 4 - Connect the STRAIGHT END of the ¼” red tube to the corresponding ¼” fitting at the base of the faucet.

Step 5 - Connect the ⅜” black tube to the corresponding ⅜” fitting at the base of the faucet.

Step 6 - Feed the toggle bolt and tubes through the 1 to 1 ¼” mounting hole in the sink. Test the fit of the faucet placement.

Step 7 - Peel the white backing paper off the seal on the bottom of the faucet base and press firmly over the mounting location.

Step 8 - Insert your Phillips head screwdriver through the spout hole of the RO faucet and torque the toggle bolt until the faucet is secure. Do not over tighten!

Step 9 - Insert the spout into the faucet base until fully seated.

Step 10 - Pull the battery safety tab out to activate the faucet monitor. Make sure that the clear drawer is firmly seated in the faucet base. The monitor will flash briefly once activated.

This product contains a button cell battery. If swallowed, it could cause severe injury or death in just 2 hours. Seek medical attention immediately.

After completing the successful installation of your Top-Mount Twist Faucet, Adapt-A-Valve™ and Drain Saddle you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier RO Pure. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your new reverse osmosis system up and running.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” blue tube from the RO faucet. Insert the open end of the tube with the 90° bend into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the back side of the RO-Pure Head behind the post filter head making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. See diagram above.

Step 2 - Locate the ¼” red tube from the RO faucet. Insert the open end of the tube with the 90° bend into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the back side of the RO-Pure Head behind the membrane head making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. See diagram above.

The Flow Restrictor is installed inside of the red tube at the bent end. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

Step 3 - Locate the ¼” green tube attached to the RO module. Insert the open end of the ¼” green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

Step 4 - Determine best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. The parts bag has 2 self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet wall 6” apart and 16” from the bottom of the cabinet. Note - Do not cut any RO System tubes at this time.

Step 5 - PTFE thread seal tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

Step 6 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

Step 7 - Position tank in desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary (check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

Step 4 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as arsenic, chromium, cryptosporidium, or fiardia. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of lead and copper. This Premier RO Pure Reverse Osmosis system has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your reverse osmosis system is a four stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

	Stage 1 - Five Micron Sediment Filter (WP105311) that traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt, and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 2 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (WP105351) which helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced.Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 3 - 50 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO Membrane (WP105331). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as chromium, arsenic, copper, lead as well as cysts, such as giardia and cryptosporidium. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommend changing every 3 to 5 years.
	Stage 4 - Carbon Block Post Filter (WP105341). Drinking water enters this filter after the water storage tank and it is used as a final polishing filter. Note - Recommend changing every 12 months.

Bi-Annual Filter Kit - WP531102 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP105311) and one Pre-Carbon Filter (WP105351).

Annual Filter Kit - WP531105 - This kit contains two Sediment Filters, (WP105311), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP105351), and one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341).

Four Pack Filters - WP531152 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP105311), one Pre-Carbon Filter (WP105351), one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341), and one 50 GPD Membrane (WP105331).

Six Pack Filters - WP531155 - This kit contains two Sediment Filters (WP105311), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP105351), one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341), and one 50 GPD Membrane (WP105331).

Membrane - Your membrane (WP105331) is only changed every 2 to 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the reverse osmosis system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS).

TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS Meters available for purchase as well as a TDS Calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a bi-annual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse 0smosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

Do not change your post-carbon filter until the sanitization has been completed. The pre-filters and membrane can be changed before the sanitization. If you have connected your reverse osmosis system to a refrigerator or ice maker, make sure the connection has been turned off. Do not re-open the connection until the sanitization process is completed.

Step 1 - Turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank.

Step 2 - Locate the tube that runs between your filter module and the storage tank and disconnect at both ends. Drain any remaining water in the tube.

Step 3 -  Hold both ends of the tube together with the ends pointed away from your face. Using a dosing syringe (see figure) slowly insert 1 teaspoon (5ml) of common household bleach into the tube. While covering one end of the tube with your finger, insert the other into the tank. Then insert the open end into the filter module.

Step 4 - Turn the incoming water back on and let the system fill for approximately 10 minutes.

Step 5 - Turn off the incoming water and let the system sit for 1 minute.

Step 6 - Drain the system completely and then follow the startup procedure - filling then draining two full tanks of water.

Step 7 - Replace the post-carbon filter once complete.

Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the reverse osmosis system.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

Step 3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results a digital air pressure gauge (161000) or tire pressure gauge is recommended.

Step 4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to re-pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) prior to re-pressurizing your tank.

Note - If there is air and sputtering coming from the faucet or water coming out of the Schrader valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

Step 5 - Start up your system. See Installations for instructions.

To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave, turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer. To restart your reverse osmosis system, follow the below steps:

Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 4 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

Step 5 - After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.