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RO Pure

WP531411 - RO Pure
Troubleshooting

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Premier has made it simple for you to find the resolution to your problem. Find the issue you are experiencing here and we will walk you through step-by-step to resolve it. If you are unable to locate the issue you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at [email protected] and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

  • What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?

    If you have low water pressure it can cause low / slow water production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need a water pressure tester. If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different booster pumps if your home water pressure is low.

    *Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

    To test whether you have high or low pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the below instructions:

    Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
    Step 2 - Remove the blue cap underneath the label on your tank to reveal the Schrader valve.
    Step 3 - Check the air pressure using a digital air pressure gauge for best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

    Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
    Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

    If you have a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to verify it is still in place and has not been removed. Otherwise, you will need to replace it.

    Step 1 - Turn off your incoming water and ball valve.
    Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve pressure on the system.
    Step 3 - Remove the unit from the wall.
    Step 4 - Once you no longer hear any water running down the drain, remove the red drain line from the membrane housing and inspect the end of the tube.

    Issue 1 - If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

     

    RO Pure Reverse Osmosis Flow Restrictor Troubleshooting

    Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

    A damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. Before beginning the ASOV test, check the air pressure in your tank and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, follow the below steps to test your ASOV:

    Option 1 - To quickly test the ASOV

    Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on and turn the tank ball valve off.
    Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and close it when you begin to hear water going down the drain.
    Step 3 - Wait 4 to 7 minutes for the draining to stop.

    Issue 1 - If the draining stops, there may be an issue with the tank pressure or the filters.
    Issue 2 - If the draining does NOT stop after 10 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).

    Items to prepare:

    Ꙩ Towel
    Ꙩ Measuring Cup

    Option 2 - Test the production of the membrane

    Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply and the tank ball valve.
    Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve system pressure.
    Step 3 - *Disconnect thblue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
    Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply; with the tank valve turned off you should see water trickling from the blue tube.
    Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.
    Step 6 - You should have collected approximately 3 to 6 ounces of water once complete.

    Issue 1 - If you are within 3 to 6 ounces then your ASOV is functioning properly.
    Issue 2 - If you collect less than 3 ounces, check the filters and lid.
    Issue 3 - If you get more than 8 ounces, you may need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).

    Step 7 - Reinstall the blue tube to the tank.
    Step 8 - Turn on the incoming water and tank ball valve. Check for leaks over the next few hours.

    Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

    You may have a clogged filter or lid, which can cause low / slow water production. First, check to see if the tank is functioning correctly and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass their tests, follow the steps below to determine whether the issue is one of the filters or the lid assembly.

    Items to prepare:

    Ꙩ Towel
    Ꙩ Bowl

    Optional:

    Ꙩ Pen or Screwdriver

    Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on.
    Step 2 - Turn the tank ball valve off and open the RO faucet so water will drip.
    Step 3 - Remove the red Sediment Pre-filter (WP105311) and place the bowl underneath the system.
    Step 4 - Use your finger or the back of a pen to depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 5. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

    Step a - Turn off the incoming water and depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port to depressurize the system.
    Step b - Remove the unit from the wall.
    Step c - *Disconnect the green tube from behind the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311).
    Step d - Hold the tube over the bowl and slowly turn the water on then off again.

    Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the green tube, then you will need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).
    Issue 2 - If water does pass through the green tube, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).

    Step 5 - Remove the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) and depress the valve in the center of the yellow filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 6. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

    Step a - Exchange the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
    Step b - Retest the flow from the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter port with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311).

    Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the yellow filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
    Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the yellow filter port, then the red Sediment Pre-Filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-filters at the same time (WP531102).

    Step 6 - Remove the green Membrane (WP105331) and depress the valve in the center of the green filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to step 7. If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below.

    Step a - Exchange the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
    Step b - Retest the flow from the green filter port with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351).

    Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the green filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
    Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the green filter port, then the yellow carbon pre-filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-Filters at the same time (WP531102).

    Step 7 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure from the red, yellow and green filter ports during testing, perform the (ASOV Test) if you have not done so already.

    Step a - If the ASOV test produced less than 3 to 6 ounces of water in 1 minute, exchange the green Membrane (WP105331) with the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341).
    Step b - With the blue Carbon Post-Filter (WP105341) installed in place of the green Membrane (WP105331), depress the valve in the center of the blue filter port on the lid assembly.

    Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through or the water is severely restricted from the blue filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
    Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, then the green Membrane (WP105331) is bad and will need to be replaced.

    *Note - Diagram and instructions for using quick-connect fittings.

    Using Quick Connect Fittings

    Disconnecting - Ensure the system is depressurized before removing the tube. Push in collet squarely against the face of the fitting. With the collet held in this position, the tube can be removed. The fitting can then be reused.

    Connecting - Make certain to push the tubing completely into the connector until it comes into contact with the internal tubing stop. The collet (gripper) has stainless steel teeth which hold the tube firmly in position while the o-ring provides a permanent leak proof seal. Pull on the tube to check that it is secure. It is good practice to test the system prior to leaving the site and/or before use.

    **Note - To replace the lid assembly (WP610051) you will need to contact our Tech Support Center at 1-800-752-5582.

    ***Note - When the green membrane is installed you will not have a high flow rate from the blue port as it uses the back pressure of the tank not the incoming water pressure. There should be a small trickle of water.

  • What Would Cause Milky Colored Water?

    If you have air in the system, it can cause milky colored water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a reverse osmosis system. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

  • What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Unit to Not Shut Off?

    If you have low water pressure it can cause low / slow water production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need a water pressure tester. If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different booster pumps if your home water pressure is low.

    *Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

    Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

    With high water pressure, make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 100 psi. If it does, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

    To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

    To test for a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

    A damaged ASOV (automatic shut-off valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. To test for a damaged ASOV, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

  • Why is There Water Leaking From the Faucet Vent at the Base or Noise Coming From the Drain?

    Items to prepare:

    Ꙩ Towel or Bowl
    Ꙩ Wire Brush or Hanger

    Your black drain tube may be clogged if you have water leaking from the air-gap faucet vent. Before beginning any test you will need to verify your drain is not clogged, and that your flow restrictor is installed.

    Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
    Step 2 - Place a towel or bowl under the drain line to catch any excess water and detach the ⅜" black drain line from the drain saddle.
    Step 3 - Clean it with either a wire brush or hanger.
    Step 4 - Examine the drain saddle installation and make sure it is installed in the correct location and direction. The drain saddle must be installed at least 1 ½” above the nut of the p-trap elbow or cross bar from the garbage disposal to insure proper drainage.

    Step a - Reinstall the drain saddle to the correct location.
    Step b - Replace the previous drain pipe so that no leak is present. The opening on drain saddle should be pointing towards the faucet providing a straight line for the black drain tube.
    Step c - Turn the drain pipe so that the drain saddle is correctly pointing towards the faucet.

    Step 5 - Re-attach the ⅜" black drain line and make sure it is inserted ¾" inside of the drain saddle. It must be as SHORT and STRAIGHT as possible to the Drain Saddle, making a downward slope from faucet to allow for proper drainage. This is a gravity fed line and if there are any bends or dips in the tube, the rinse water will not flow into the drain properly. Water may back up and come out the air gap hole in the back of the faucet. If necessary, you can use any Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used.

    Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

    Installing Universal Drain Line Adapter

    Proper Drain Saddle Installation

  • Is There a Way to By-Pass the Faucet's Air-Gap?

    You can by-pass the air-gap on any of Premiers Air-Gap Faucets. Before beginning the air-gap by-pass, you will need to check the air pressure in your tank and ensure the ASOV is functioning properly. Follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

    Note – Installation must comply with all state and local plumbing regulations. By making these alterations it is the owner’s responsibility to ensure you are meeting these regulations.

    Items required for Installation:

    Ꙩ Double Check Valve (WP610019)
    Ꙩ ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037)

    Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water to the system.
    Step 2 - Cut the red & black tubing approximately 4" from the bottom of the reverse osmosis faucet.
    Step 3 - Cut the ⅜” black tube approximately 6" from the drain saddle.
    Step 4 - Use the ¼” x ⅜” Union (WP125037) to connect the ¼” red tubing from the reverse osmosis system to the ⅜” black tubing from the drain saddle.
    Step 5 - Cut th¼” red tube and install the Double Check Valve (WP610019) ensuring the flow arrow is pointing towards the drain saddle.
    Step 6 - Start-up your reverse osmosis system and check for any leaks.

    Please be aware that in the event you encounter an issue involving water constantly running in the future (i.e. damaged ASOV, high or low pressure in the tank, etc.) you will be less likely to hear it.

    Bypassing an Air-Gap Faucet

  • What Would Cause a Leak in a Faucet?

    If you have damaged, faulty or dried out o-ring on the lower faucet assembly ¼” blue tube, this can cause your faucet to leak. Lubricate the blue tube o-ring. If the leak persists, you will need to replace the lower faucet assembly.

  • Why Would There Only be a Small Amount of Water in the Storage Tank?

    When starting up your system, whether it is for the first time, or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

    To check whether or not you have low water pressure, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

    To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

  • Why Would There be Low Water Flow From the Faucet?

    To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (what would cause low / slow water production?).

  • What Would Cause Leaking at the Adapt-A-Valve™?

    During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™, if you used PTFE thread seal tape on the fitting, you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was tightened with a wrench rather than hand tightened this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not, you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

    Disconnect and inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the tubing is damaged, you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to, then you will need to replace it.

Premier has laid out every piece of the installation for our RO Pure Reverse Osmosis System. If you can't find the installation guide you are looking for our tech support agents will assist you. You can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at [email protected] and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

  • Drill a Hole for the Reverse Osmosis Faucet

    For marble countertops we recommend contacting a qualified contractor for drilling a hole. Most sinks are pre-drilled with a 1 ¼" diameter hole that you can use for your RO faucet (if you are already using it for a sprayer or soap dispenser, see Step #1 below). Porcelain sinks are extremely hard and can crack or chip easily. Use extreme caution when drilling. Watts accepts no responsibility for damage resulting from the installation of the faucet. A diamond tip bit is recommended.

    Drill

    Step 1 - Determine desired location for the RO faucet on your sink and place a piece of masking tape over where the hole is to be drilled. Mark the center of the hole on the tape.

    Step 2 - Using a variable speed drill set on the slowest speed, drill a ⅛“ pilot hole through both porcelain and metal casing of sink at the marked center of the desired location. Use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the drill bit cool (if drill bit gets hot it may cause the porcelain to crack or chip).

    Step 3 - Using a 1 ¼” diamond tip hole saw, proceed to drill the large hole. Keep drill speed on the slowest speed and use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the hole saw cool during cutting.

    Step 4 - After drilling, remove all sharp edges and make sure the surroundings of the sink are cooled before mounting the faucet.

  • Monitored Top-Mount Faucet Installation

    The RO Pure Faucet is equipped with quick connect fittings for easy tube installation. To connect tubes, simply push them firmly into their corresponding fitting on the RO faucet until fully seated. Note - Make sure the tube is inserted the full ¾” into the fitting. Follow the below steps to complete the installation.

    Step 1 - In the parts bag, locate one ⅜” Stem x ¼” Quick connect fitting adapter, one ¼” red tube, one ¼” blue tube and one ⅜” black tube .

    Step 2 - Insert the ⅜” Stem adapter into the ⅜” fitting located on the end of the toggle bolt assembly.

    Step 3 - Connect the STRAIGHT END of the ¼” blue tube to the corresponding ¼” fitting adapter on the toggle bolt.

    Step 4 - Connect the STRAIGHT END of th¼” red tube to the corresponding ¼” fitting at the base of the faucet.

    Step 5 - Connect the ⅜” black tube to the corresponding ⅜” fitting at the base of the faucet.

    Step 6 Feed the toggle bolt and tubes through the 1 to 1 ¼” mounting hole in the sink. Test the fit of the faucet placement.

    Step 7 - Peel the white backing paper off the seal on the bottom of the faucet base and press firmly over the mounting location.

    Step 8 - Insert your Phillips head screwdriver through the spout hole of the RO faucet and torque the toggle bolt until the faucet is secure. Do not over tighten!

    Step 9 - Insert the spout into the faucet base until fully seated.

    Step 10 - Pull the battery safety tab out to activate the faucet monitor. Make sure that the clear drawer is firmly seated in the faucet base. The monitor will flash briefly once activated.

    This product contains a button cell battery. If swallowed, it could cause severe injury or death in just 2 hours. Seek medical attention immediately.

    Top Mount Faucet Install

  • Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

    Water supply line to the system must be from the cold water supply line only. Hot water will severely damage your system. Do not use PTFE thread seal tape with the Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Step 1 - Turn off the cold water supply to the faucet by turning the angle stop valve completely off. Open cold water sink faucet to relieve pressure.

    Step 2 - Choosing the configuration that fits your plumbing, attach the Adapt-A-Valve™ as illustrated below.

    Note - Make sure that the black collet is installed into the ¼” opening on the Adapt-A-Valve™. Don’t forget to install the white compression washer with the ⅜” configuration. Brass adapter does not need to be tightened with a wrench, only finger tight.

    Adapt-A-Valve Install

  • Drain Saddle Installation

    If you have a garbage disposal, do not install the drain saddle near it. Installation of the drain saddle must be either above the garbage disposal, or if a second sink drain is available, install it above the cross bar on the second drain. Installation of the drain saddle near a garbage disposal may cause the drain line to plug. If no other installation of drain line is available, Premier offers a drain line installation kit (part number 164020) that can be used with garbage disposals.

    Step 1 - The small square black foam gasket with a circle cut out of the middle must be applied to the inside of the drain saddle. Remove sticky tape backing and stick to the drain saddle as shown.

    Step 2 - The drain saddle must be installed at least 1 ½” above the nut of the p-trap elbow or cross bar from the garbage disposal to insure proper drainage. Using the ¼” drill bit, drill into the drain pipe at best available location as specified above, for drain saddle installation.

    Take extreme caution to only drill through one side of the drain pipe. Do not over tighten the screws. It may crack the drain saddle.

    Step 3 - Assemble the drain saddle around the drain pipe and align drain saddle fitting opening with the hole drilled in the previous step - you may use a small screwdriver to feed through the drain saddle into the drain pipe to aid with the alignment. Using a Phillips screw driver tighten the drain saddle bolts evenly and securely on both sides.

    The black ⅜” drain tube must be as SHORT and STRAIGHT as possible to the drain saddle, making a downward slope from faucet to drain saddle to allow for proper drainage. This is a gravity fed line and if there is any bend or dip in the tube, the rinse water will not flow into the drain properly. Water may back up and come out the air gap hole in the back of the faucet.

    Step 4 - Measure the ⅜” black tube from faucet to the drain saddle on the drain pipe and make a straight cut to the correct length.

    Step 5 - Connect the black tube to the open quick connect fitting on the drain saddle by pushing the tube all the way to the tube stop.

  • Premier RO Pure Reverse Osmosis Installation

    After completing the successful installation of your Top-Mount Twist Faucet, Adapt-A-Valve™ and Drain Saddle you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier RO Pure. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your new reverse osmosis system up and running.

    RO Pure Install

    Step 1 - Locate th¼” blue tube from the RO faucet. Insert the open end of the tube with the 90° bend into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the back side of the RO-Pure Head behind the post filter head making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. See diagram above.

    Step 2 - Locate the ¼” red tube from the RO faucet. Insert the open end of the tube with the 90° bend into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the back side of the RO-Pure Head behind the membrane head making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. See diagram above.

    The Flow Restrictor is installed inside of the red tube at the bent end. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

    Step 3 - Locate the ¼” green tube attached to the RO module. Insert the open end of the ¼” green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

    Step 4 - Determine best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. The parts bag has 2 self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet wall 6” apart and 16” from the bottom of the cabinet. Note - Do not cut any RO System tubes at this time.

    Step 5 - PTFE thread seal tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

    Step 6 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

    Step 7 - Position tank in desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

  • Starting Your Reverse Osmosis System

    Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary (check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

    If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

    Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

    Step 3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

    Step 4 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Premier wants to make sure you are aware just because you cannot taste it, does not mean that it is not there. Contaminants such as lead, chromium, and arsenic are undetectable to the taste. Additionally, over time if you do not replace the filters, other bad tastes and odors will be apparent in your drinking water. It is important to change out your filters at the recommended intervals as indicated below. When replacing the filters, pay special attention to any cleaning instructions. If you have any questions throughout the process you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at [email protected] and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

  • System Overview

    Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as arsenic, chromium, cryptosporidium, or fiardia. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of lead and copper. This Premier RO Pure Reverse Osmosis system has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your reverse osmosis system is a four stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

    6 months Stage 1 - Five Micron Sediment Filter (WP105311) that traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt, and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
    6 months Stage 2 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (WP105351) which helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced.Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
    3 to 5 years Stage 3 - 50 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO Membrane (WP105331). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as chromium, arsenic, copper, lead as well as cysts, such as giardia and cryptosporidium. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommend changing every 3 to 5 years.
    1 year Stage 4 - Carbon Block Post Filter (WP105341). Drinking water enters this filter after the water storage tank and it is used as a final polishing filter. Note - Recommend changing every 12 months.
  • Filter Kits

    Bi-Annual Filter Kit - WP531102 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP105311) and one Pre-Carbon Filter (WP105351).

    Annual Filter Kit - WP531105 - This kit contains two Sediment Filters, (WP105311), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP105351), and one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341).

    Four Pack Filters - WP531152 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP105311), one Pre-Carbon Filter (WP105351), one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341), and one 50 GPD Membrane (WP105331).

    Six Pack Filters - WP531155 - This kit contains two Sediment Filters (WP105311), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP105351), one Post-Carbon Filter (WP105341), and one 50 GPD Membrane (WP105331).

  • Changing the Filter Cartridges

    Your reverse osmosis module is equipped with valve heads which will automatically turn off the water supply to each filter when the filter is released, thus you do not need to turn off the incoming water supply at the Adapt-A-Valve™. The RO faucet must be off when filters are replaced. To make the removal of the filter cartridges easier, the heads and cartridges may be swiveled up to 90° as shown in the pictures below.

    When performing your bi-annual system maintenance, you will be replacing your Sediment Filter (WP105311) and Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351). Complete these same steps for the annual system maintenance. The only difference will be that in addition to replacing your Sediment Filter (WP105311) and Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) you will also be replacing your Carbon Block Post Filter. (WP105341). Note - Flush the first full tank after completing the annual maintenance.

    Step 1 - Place a towel under the RO module to catch any excess water that may drip out from the filters during the changeover.

    Step 2 - To Remove A Filter Cartridge: Push and hold the button on the valve head above the filter. Pull the cartridge downward (from the head) to remove. Release button and discard the old filter.

    Step 3 - To Install A Filter Cartridge: Remove the seal cap and insert the cartridge into the valve head until you hear an audible “click” (the button doesn't need to be pressed to install new filters).

    Note - You must reset the faucet monitor. After completing your 6 month maintenance, it is a good time to check the air pressure in your storage tank.

    p>RO Pure Filter Replacement

     

    Membrane - Your membrane (WP105331) is only changed every 2 to 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the reverse osmosis system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS).

    TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS Meters available for purchase as well as a TDS Calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a bi-annual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse 0smosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

  • Annual Sanitization

    Do not change your post-carbon filter until the sanitization has been completed. The pre-filters and membrane can be changed before the sanitization. If you have connected your reverse osmosis system to a refrigerator or ice maker, make sure the connection has been turned off. Do not re-open the connection until the sanitization process is completed.

    Step 1 - Turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank.

    Step 2 - Locate the tube that runs between your filter module and the storage tank and disconnect at both ends. Drain any remaining water in the tube.

    hose hose

    Step 3 -  Hold both ends of the tube together with the ends pointed away from your face. Using a dosing syringe (see figure) slowly insert 1 teaspoon (5ml) of common household bleach into the tube. While covering one end of the tube with your finger, insert the other into the tank. Then insert the open end into the filter module.

    Step 4 - Turn the incoming water back on and let the system fill for approximately 10 minutes.

    Step 5 - Turn off the incoming water and let the system sit for 1 minute.

    Step 6 - Drain the system completely and then follow the startup procedure - filling then draining two full tanks of water.

    Step 7 - Replace the post-carbon filter once complete.

  • Faucet Indicator Battery Replacement

    This faucet is equipped with a filter change indicator. The indicator light will flash blue while the water is being dispensed. After approximately six months or 2,000 gallons of filtered water being used the light will change to red, indicating that filters should be changed. After a filter change you must reset the monitor. To change the indicator battery, follow the below instructions:

    Step 1 - Turn the handle on the storage tank ball valve to the “off” position and lower faucet handle to “on” position.

    Step 2 - Remove the battery tray from the base of the faucet. Note - Water will dribble out of the spout, use caution when handling the electronic components.

    Step 3 - Slide the old battery out and replace with the new battery. Note - Once the battery is pushed into the clip a red and blue light will flash indicating proper installation.

    Step 4 - Slide the new battery tray back into place.

    Warning

  • Check Air Pressure in the Tank and Re-Pressurize

    Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

    Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the reverse osmosis system.

    Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

    Step 3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results a digital air pressure gauge (161000) or tire pressure gauge is recommended.

    Step 4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to re-pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

    It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) prior to re-pressurizing your tank.

    Note - If there is air and sputtering coming from the faucet or water coming out of the Schrader valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

    Step 5 - Start up your system. See Installations for instructions.

  • Procedure for Extended Non-Use (More Than 2 Months)

    To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave, turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer. To restart your reverse osmosis system, follow the below steps:

    Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

    Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

    If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

    Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

    Step 4 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

    Step 5 - After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.