To test whether you have high or low pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the below instructions:

Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
Step 2 - Remove the blue cap underneath the label on your tank to reveal the Schrader valve.
Step 3 - Check the air pressure using a digital air pressure gauge for best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all of the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

Verify that your pump assembly is working properly. Perform the tests here to check your electrical components.

If you have a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to verify it is still in place and has not been removed. Otherwise, you will need to replace it.

Step 1 - Turn off your incoming water and ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve pressure on the system.
Step 3 - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step 4 - Once you no longer hear any water running down the drain, remove the red drain line from the membrane housing and inspect the end of the tube.

Issue 1 - If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing, you will need to replace it.

Option 1 - To quickly test the Pressure Switch

Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on and turn the tank ball valve off.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and close it when you begin to hear water going down the drain/hot line.
Step 3 - Wait 4 to 7 minutes for the draining to stop.

Issue 1 - If the draining stops, there may be an issue with the tank pressure or the filters.
Issue 2 - If the draining does NOT stop after 10 minutes, you will need to replace the pressure switch (WP152032).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel

Ꙩ Measuring cup

Option 2 - Test the production of the membrane

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply and the tank ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve system pressure.
Step 3 - *Disconnect the blue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply; with the tank valve turned off you should see water trickling from the blue tube.
Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.
Step 6 - You should have collected approximately 3 to 6 ounces of water once complete.

Issue 1 - If you collect less than 3 ounces (check the filters and lid).

Step 7 - Reinstall the blue tube to the tank.
Step 8 - Turn on the incoming water and tank ball valve. Check for leaks over the next few hours.

Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

You may have a clogged filter or lid, which can cause low / slow water production. First, check to see if the tank is functioning correctly and verify that your flow restrictor is installed. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass their tests, follow the steps below to determine whether the issue is one of the filters or the lid assembly.

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel

Ꙩ Bowl

Optional:

Ꙩ Pen or Screwdriver

Step 1 - Make sure the incoming water to the system is on.
Step 2 - Turn the tank ball valve off and open the RO faucet so water will drip.
Step 3 - Remove the red Sediment Pre-filter (WP105311) and place the bowl underneath the system.
Step 4 - Use your finger or the back of a pen to depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 5. If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below:

Step a - Turn off the incoming water and depress the valve inside the center of the red filter port to depressurize the system.
Step b - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step c - *Disconnect the green tube from behind the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311).
Step d - Hold the tube over the bowl and slowly turn the water on then off again.

Step 5 - Remove the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) and depress the valve in the center of the yellow filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 6. If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below:

Step a - Exchange the red Sediment Pre-Filter (WP105311) with the silver VOC Post-Filter (WP105381).
Step b - Retest the flow from the yellow carbon pre-filter port with the silver VOC Post-Filter (WP105381) installed in place of the red sediment pre-filter (WP105311).

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted from the yellow filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the yellow filter port, then the red sediment pre-filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-filters at the same time (WP531102).

Step 6 - Remove the membrane (WP105331) and depress the valve in the center of the green filter port on the lid assembly. If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, reinstall the filter and continue to Step 7. If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted, follow the steps below:

Step a - Exchange the yellow Carbon Pre-Filter (WP105351) with the silver VOC Post-Filter (WP105381).
Step b - Retest the flow from the green filter port with the silver VOC Post-Filter (WP105381) installed in place of the yellow carbon pre-filter (WP105351).

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted from the green filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure through the green filter port, then the yellow carbon pre-filter is clogged. We recommend replacing the red and yellow pre-filters at the same time (WP531102).

Step 7 - With the silver VOC Carbon Post-Filter (WP105381) installed in place of the green membrane (WP105331), depress the valve in the center of the silver filter port on the lid assembly.

Issue 1 - If water does NOT pass through, or the water is severely restricted from the silver filter port, then you have a clogged lid assembly (WP610051**).
Issue 2 - If water sprays out at a high rate of pressure, then the green membrane (WP105331) is bad and will need to be replaced.

*Note - See below for a diagram and instructions for using quick-connect fittings.

Disconnecting - Ensure the system is depressurized before removing the tube. Push in collet squarely against the face of the fitting. With the collet held in this position, the tube can be removed. The fitting can then be reused.

Connecting - Make certain to push the tubing completely into the connector until it comes into contact with the internal tubing stop. The collet (gripper) has stainless steel teeth which hold the tube firmly in position while the o-ring provides a permanent leak proof seal. Pull on the tube to check that it is secure. It is good practice to test the system prior to leaving the site and/or before use.

**Note - To replace the lid assembly (WP610051) you will need to contact our Tech Support Center at 1-800-752-5582.

***Note - When the green membrane is installed you will not have a high flow rate from the silver port as it uses the back pressure of the tank, not the incoming water pressure. There should be a small trickle of water.

If you have air in the system it can cause milky colored water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a reverse osmosis system. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

Any crimped tubing can cause low / slow water production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary, replace the tubing.

With high water pressure, make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 100 psi. If it does, a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

A faulty pressure switch can cause your pump to run continually, or not at all. To test, close the ball valve on your tank, then open the faucet for a few seconds to depressurize the system, then close it. The pump should activate. Wait a minute or two for the system to turn off and stop the pump. If the system stops running, you need to check if you have high or low air pressure in the tank. You will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?). If the system does not stop running, then verify that your pump assembly is working properly. You will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?). Perform the tests here to check your other electrical components.

To test for a missing or bad flow restrictor, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

A damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause low / slow water production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. To test for a damaged ASOV, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?).

You may not have power to the outlet. Make sure the electrical outlet is not controlled by the garbage disposal switch. If so, switch to a different outlet.

The transformer may be burned out due to the pump trying to pull extra amperage because of clogged filters. If the pump is not working, test the transformer to make sure it is outputting 24 volts, if it doesn't replace the transformer. If a volt tester is not available, disconnect the transformer from the pressure switch and test it by connecting it directly to the pump, and then the solenoid. If the pump does not run, then the pump may be bad. Test your solenoid the same way. It should click for only a second confirming it's working. Should both the solenoid and pump not receive power, then you may have a bad transformer.

Make sure all electrical connections are connected securely and not loose. These connections would include the controller, wire harness, and solenoid.

When starting up your system, whether it is for the first time, or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

To test whether you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?).

To test to see if you have high or low air pressure in the tank, you will need to empty all of the water from your storage tank. In order to do this, shut off the main water supply and open the RO faucet until the water stops running. Then, check the pressure using a digital air gauge for the best results.

The booster pump will vibrate causing the pump to vibrate against adjacent objects when not in the optimum location. Make sure the pump is attached to the bracket and standing on the rubber feet at the bottom of the bracket. If the pump is hanging on the wall, we suggest adding padding, such as foam, between the bracket and wall to dampen the vibration.

If the pump has been damaged it will need to be replaced.

If you are receiving hot water from your reverse osmosis system then the RO system is too close to the hot water heater. Make sure the system is at least 25' away from the hot water heater.

This could be an issue with either the fitting or the tubing. Pull the tubing out of the fitting. If the tubing does not look damaged then re-insert it making sure to fully insert the tubing into the fitting. If there is still a leak, cut the tubing 1" and re-insert it. If the leak continues replace the tubing.

An unpleasant taste can come from not changing your filters on time. Performing the annual sanitization during the annual maintenance will help eliminate the unpleasant taste in the water.

If your reverse osmosis system has not been in use for an extended period of time (more than 2 months) and you have not performed the Procedure for Extended Non-Use prior to your absence, then you will need to replace all filters and sanitize your system.

If you have damaged, faulty, or a dried out o-ring in the lower faucet assembly's ¼” blue quick-connect fitting, this can cause your faucet to leak. Lubricate the blue quick-connect fitting's o-ring and reinstall the ¼” blue tube. If the leak persists, you will need to replace the lower faucet assembly.

The reverse osmosis system flushes out the waste/brine water to the hot water Adapt-A-Valve™ under the sink. If this Adapt-A-Valve™ to the hot water outlet is turned off this can cause your membrane to go bad, clog your filters, and create higher TDS Levels. Verify the Adapt-A-Valve™ is turned on and the pump is working properly. Follow these instructions to check for clogged filters.

The RO Pure Plus faucet is equipped with quick connect fittings for easy tube installation. To make a connection, the tube is simply pushed into the fitting. The unique locking system holds the tube firmly in place without deforming it or restricting flow. Use the steps below in reference to any quick connect tube connections. Note - Make sure the tube is inserted the full ¾” into the fitting. Follow the below steps to complete the installation.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” blue tube that is already connected to the filter lid, labeled “Faucet” and feed it up through the pre-drilled faucet hole. Connect it to the ¼” blue quick-connect fitting on the lower faucet assembly of the faucet. Make sure the tube is inserted the full ¾” into the fitting.

Step 2 - Make sure the Locking Tabs are “tucked”. Feed the tubes and the lower faucet assembly through the mounting hole in the sink. Test fit faucet placement.

Step 3 - Make sure the lower faucet assembly is seated properly inside of the rubber washer groove. Note - Arrow on base indicates FRONT of faucet.

Step 4 - Using a Phillips screwdriver, tighten the two screws until snug. Then, tighten each screw alternately until faucet is secure. Do not over-tighten!

Step 5 - Inspect o-rings on lower faucet assembly. Lubricate with water-soluble lubricant if needed.

Step 6 - Align the release button on the back of the upper faucet assembly approximately 45° left off the back of the lower faucet assembly.

Step 7 - Press the upper faucet assembly firmly onto the lower faucet assembly and twist clockwise until locked into place. Remove battery cover on faucet handle, pull battery tab and replace battery cover.

After completing the successful installation of your top-mount twist faucet, Adapt-A-Valve™, and booster pump assembly, you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier Zero Pure Plus. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your new reverse osmosis system up and running.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” red tube that is already connected to the back of the filter lid and connect the open end into the HOT water return Adapt-A-Valve™. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

The Flow Restrictor is installed inside of the red tube at the bent end. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

Step 2 - Determine the best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. The parts bag has 2 self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet wall 6” apart and 16” from the bottom of the cabinet. Note - Do not cut any RO system tubes at this time.

Step 3 - PTFE thread seal tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

Step 4 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

Step 5 - Position tank in desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

To prevent the possibility of electrical shock, clean up any water on the cabinet floor and dry all water from outside of the reverse osmosis system.

Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary (check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2 - Plug the transformer into the electrical outlet under the sink.

Note - If the pump doesn’t start, make sure there is power at the electrical outlet and that it is not controlled by the garbage disposal switch. If the booster pump turns on and the water starts to drip out of the RO faucet you will need to connect the system to a different power outlet.

Step 3 - Make sure the ball valve on the tank is open.

Step 4 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 5 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. 

Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

Step 6 - After the storage tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. 

Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete. Water may be cloudy or milky due to air in the system and carbon particles flushing out of the final polishing filter. This condition will resolve itself after flushing a couple of tanks of water.

Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as arsenic, and chromium. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of lead and copper. This Premier Zero Pure Plus reverse osmosis system has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your reverse osmosis system is a four stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

	Stage 1 - Five micron sediment filter (WP105311) traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt, and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 2 - Five micron carbon block filter (WP105351) which helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced. Note - Recommend changing every 6 months.
	Stage 3 - 50 GPD (gallons per day) RO membrane (WP105331). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as chromium, arsenic, copper, and lead. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of Total Dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommend changing every 3 to 5 years.
	Stage 4 - VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) carbon block filter (WP105381). Through the specialty (VOC) like MTBE’s, atrazine, benzene, 2,4-D,lindane and others from your drinking water. It is estimated that VOC’s are present in one-fifth of the nation’s water supplies. These water contaminants can enter ground water from a variety of sources including localized use of herbicides and pesticides, gasoline or oil spills, leaking underground fuel tanks, septic system cleaners, and chemicals used in the dry-cleaning industry. Premier RO-pure plus system conforms to NSF/ANSI 58 for VOC reduction. See performance data sheet for individual contaminants and reduction performance. Note - Recommend changing every 12 months.

Bi-Annual Filter Kit - WP531102 - This kit contains one sediment filter (WP105311) and one pre-carbon filter (WP105351).

Annual Filter Kit - WP531109 - This kit contains two sediment filters, (WP105311), two pre-carbon filters (WP105351) and one VOC carbon block filter (WP105381).

Four Pack Filters - WP531160 - This kit contains one sediment filter (WP105311), one pre-carbon filter (WP105351), one VOC carbon block filter (WP105381) and one 50 GPD membrane (WP105331).

Six Pack Filters - WP531161 - This kit contains two sediment filters (WP105311), two pre-carbon filters (105351), one VOC carbon block filter (WP105381) and one 50 GPD membrane (WP105331).

Membrane - Your membrane (WP105331) is only changed every 3 to 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the reverse osmosis system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of Total Dissolved Solids (TDS).

TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS meters available for purchase as well as a TDS calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a bi-annual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

Do not change your post carbon filter until the sanitization has been completed. The pre filters and membrane can be changed before the sanitization. If you have connected your reverse osmosis system to a refrigerator or ice maker, make sure the connection has been turned off. Do not re-open the connection until the sanitization process is completed.

Step 1 - Turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank.

Step 2 - Locate the tube that runs between your filter module and the storage tank and disconnect at both ends. Drain any remaining water in the tube.

Step 3 - Hold both ends of the tube together with the ends pointed away from your face. Using a dosing syringe (see figure) slowly insert 1 teaspoon (5ml) of common household bleach into the tube. While covering one end of the tube with your finger, insert the other into the tank. Then insert the open end into the filter module.

Step 4 - Turn the incoming water back on and let the system fill for approximately 10 minutes.

Step 5 - Turn off the incoming water and let the system sit for 1 minute.

Step 6 - Drain the system completely and then follow the startup procedure - filling then draining two full tanks of water.

Step 7 - Replace the post-carbon filter once complete.

This faucet is equipped with a filter change indicator. The indicator light will flash blue while the water is being dispensed. After approximately 6 months or 2,000 gallons of filtered water being used, the light will change to red, indicating that filters should be changed. After a filter change, you must reset the monitor. To change the indicator battery, follow the below instructions:

Step 1 - Turn the handle on the storage tank ball valve to the “off” position and lower faucet handle to the “on” position.

Step 2 - Remove the faucet handle cover at the slot. Note - Water will dribble out of the spout, use caution when handling the electronic components.

Step 3 - Slide the old battery out and replace with a new battery. Note - Once the battery is pushed into the clip, a red and blue light will flash indicating proper installation.

Step 4 - Replace cover assembly onto the faucet handle while aligning the tab on the cover with the notch on the faucet's handle.

Warning! This product contains a button cell battery. If swallowed, it could cause severe injury or death in just 2 hours. Seek medical attention immediately.

To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave, turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer. To restart your reverse osmosis system, follow the below steps.

Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 4 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature, and water pressure.

Step 5 - After the tank has filled, open the RO faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.

To prepare your reverse osmosis system for your extended leave turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do not place in the freezer. To restart your reverse osmosis system follow the below steps.

Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 4 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

Step 5 - After the Tank has filled, open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.