In this page you will find:

 

6 Month System Maintenance

 Items needed:

  • Stage 1 - Sediment Filter (P/N: 104017)
  • Stage 2 & 3 - Carbon Block Filter (P/N: 101009-White End Caps) (On four stage version, only carbon block is used)

Note: The filter wrench pictured (P/N: 164003) may be purchased from Watts Premier to aid with twisting off filter housings (not required)


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Step 1:
Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO at the feed water valve. (Follow the green tube away from the RO system to find the valve.)

Step 2:
Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty

Note: Water may be saved in a container for drinking or to rinse system parts.

Step 3:
Let system sit for a few minutes after tank is empty to depressurize before attempting to remove filter housings.

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Step 4:

For more leverage you may leave the RO module attached to wall of cabinet. If you are unable to access the module while it is mounted, remove it prior to changing filters. Starting with the closest housing
(Stage 1), remove it by turning it clockwise (left), empty water, then discard filter. Continue on to the 2nd housing (Stage 2) and 3rd housing (Stage 3).

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Step 5:

Clean the filter housings (bowls) with a mild soap solution and rinse with water. Check O-rings and lubricate with water soluble lubricant. KY Jelly® or other water based lubricants may be used. Petroleum based lubricants (such as Vaseline®) must not be used.

Caution: Before re-installing the filter bowls back on to the system , check O-rings to make sure they are still in place and lubricate with water soluble lubricant.  If the O-rings appear dry, cracked, or damaged in any way, we recommend replacing them.  They can be purchased from our website (P/N 560045

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Step 6:
Insert the new sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the 1st filter housing which is the one closest to the side with tubing connections
and re-install housing.

Step 7:
Insert the new Carbon Block filter (White End Caps) into the middle housing and re-install housings.

Step 8:
Turn water on to the unit at the adapt-a-valve.

Step 9:
Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 10:
Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and
water pressure.

Note: ** To reset the electronic monitor during replacement of filters, slide out the battery from the base of the faucet, wait one minute and reinsert.

 

Annual Maintenance

Items Needed:

  • Stage 1 - Sediment Filter (P/N: 104017)
  • Stage 2 & 3 - Carbon Block Filter (P/N: 101009-White end caps) (On four stage version, only carbon block is used)
  • Stage 5 - 10” Final Polishing Filter (P/N: 560010)
  • 1/2 Cup of hydrogen peroxide or common household bleach

Note: Sanitizing of unit is recommended.

Step 1:
Perform steps 1 through 5 in the 6 Month System Maintenance .

Note: If not sanitizing the system skip to step 8.

Step 2: 
Remove the RO membrane from its housing and rest in a clean sanitary place. (Refer to “Membrane Replacement” section on page 17 for directions on removing the membrane). Replace cap onto empty membrane housing and re-connect green tubing 

Step 3: 
Leaving the filters out, replace stage 2 and 3 empty filter housings (hand tight) onto unit. Measure & pour either 1/2 cup of hydrogen peroxide or common household bleach into the 1st filter housing (Stage 1) and hand tighten onto unit

Step 4:
With the RO faucet in the closed position turn on the incoming water supply to the system. Wait 1 minute for the unit to pressurize. Turn on the RO faucet and let the water run for 30 seconds. Turn off the RO faucet and let the unit rest for 2 minutes. Finally, open the RO faucet and let the water run for 5 more minutes

Step 5:
Turn off the incoming water supply to the system. Keep the RO faucet o pen until the storage tank is completely drained

Step 6:
Open the membrane housing and re-install the RO membrane while making sure not to kink the O-rings. (Refer to “Membrane Replacement” section on page 17 for directions on installing the membrane). Tighten the cap back on the housing and reconnect green tubing

Step 7:
Remove filter housings Stage 1, 2 and 3 and empty of water 

Caution: Before re-installing the filter bowls back on to the system , check O-rings to make sure they are still in place and lubricate with water soluble lubricant.  If the O-rings appear dry, cracked, or damaged in any way, we recommend replacing them.  They can be purchased from our website (P/N 560045

Step 8:
Insert the new sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the 1st filter housing which is the one on the water inlet side (green tubing from the adapt-a-valve) of the RO system and re-install housing

Step 9:
Insert the new Carbon Block filter (White End Caps) into the 2nd and 3rd housing and re-install housing 

Step 10: 
The final in-line filter is located on the blue tube between the storage tank and the RO faucet.  Remove it by loosening the compression fittings on both ends of the filter and replace with new filter. (Discard used final filter after santizing)

Note: Flow arrow on final filter must be pointing in the direction of water flow to the RO faucet.

Tip: This is a good time to check the air pressure in your storage tank. 

Step 11:
Follow Steps 8 through 10 in the 6 Month System Maintenance for startup directions

 

Membrane Maintenance

RO Membranes have a life expectancy between 2 and 5 years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the RO system is used. This reverse osmosis membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). The product water should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Normally, a membrane would be replaced during a semiannual or annual filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the reverse osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane. Watts Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%.

Note: A water sample may be sent to Watts Premier for a free diagnosis of your membranes performance. To send a water sample, use 2 clean containers and fill 1/2 cup of tap water in one container and 1/2 cup of RO  water in 2nd container. Clearly label each sample. Send the samples to the address listed on the cover of this manual attention “Water Samples”. Watts Premier will test the water and mail or call you with the results. You can also test the TDS with a Handheld Pocket Meter

Item Needed: One Membrane - 24 GPD Membrane (P/N: 560014OR 36 GPD (P/N 560016OR  50 GPD (P/N 560018OR 75 GPD (P/N 560020).  - Verify what capacity membrane is currently installed in your system (There is a sticker on the membrane filter) **

**You can also use a membrane that is rate for a different GPD (gallon per day) rating.  Make sure to change the flow restrictor to match the new membrane size.

Step 1:
Turn off the incoming cold water supply to the RO at the adapt-avalves 

Step 2:
Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty

Removing the membrane:

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Step 1:
Use a 5/8” wrench to remove the Green Tube fitting on the left side of the horizontal membrane housing (end with one elbow).

Step 2: 
Remove the cap from the membrane housing by turning it counter clockwise to loosen

Note: A double sided wrench may be purchased from Premier to aid with loosening the cap / filter housings. (Part # 164003)

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Step 3: 
Remove membrane housing from the holding clips. Using a pair of pliers, grip the PVC tube of the RO membrane and pull firmly on the membrane to remove from the housing and discard

Installing the membrane

Step 4:
Lubricate the O-rings on the new membrane with a water soluble lubricant such as KY Jelly ®. Insert the end with the two black O-rings first into the housing 

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Step 5:
 
Once membrane has been inserted into the housing you must take your thumbs and give a firm push to properly seat the membrane. Replace membrane housing cap and tighten.

Step 6: 
After replacing membrane housing into clips, attach the green tube to the elbow on cap using 5/8” wrench

Step 7: 
Follow the Start Up Instructions below

 

Start Up Instructions

Step 1:
Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-a-Valve. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary. (Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure

Note:
If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step 4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2:
Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 3:
Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure

Note: During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence

Step 4:
After the storage tank has filled (the water trickling has stopped), open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking.

The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Note: Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane.

 

Check the Air Pressure in the Tank

Important: Check air pressure only when tank is empty of water!

Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap

Step 1:
Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO.

Step 2:
Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty.

Tip: When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

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Step 3:

Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 - 7 PSI. (Digital air pressure gauge is recommended)

Step 4:
Follow startup procedure