500029 - ZeroWaste®
Troubleshooting

Product Manual (PDF)

Watts Premier has made it simple for you to find the resolution to your problem. Find the issue you are experiencing here and we will walk you through step-by-step to resolve it. If you are unable to locate the issue you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

 

What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?

What Would Cause Milky Colored Water?

What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Pump Won't Turn Off?

Why Would There Only Be a Small Amount of Water in the Storage Tank?

Why Would There Be Low Water Flow From the Faucet? 

What Would Cause Water to Leak From Around the Blue or White Filter Housing?

What Would Cause Hot Water Coming From the RO System?

What Would Cause Leaking At The Adapt-A-Valve™?

Why Would There Be Noise Coming From the Pump?

Why Won't the Pump Turn On?

What Would Cause the Water to Have an Unpleasant Taste?

What Would Cause the Faucet to Drip?

Why Would the TDS Levels be High?

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    What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Production?

    Test to see if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to empty all the water from your storage tank. In order to do this shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet until the water stops running. Then check the pressure using a Digital Air Gauge for the best results.

    Any Crimped Tubing can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary replace the tubing.

    If you had a prior Reverse Osmosis System make sure that you did not use the Old Adapt-A-Valve™ from this prior system. Install the Adapt-A-Valve™ which was supplied with your new RO system or purchase a new one.

    Verify that your Pump Assembly is working properly. Perform the tests here to check your electrical components.

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    What Would Cause Milky Colored Water?

    If you have Air In The System it can cause Milky Colored Water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a Reverse Osmosis System. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

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    What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Pump Won't Turn Off?

    Any Crimped Tubing can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary replace the tubing.

    With High Water Pressure make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 85 psi. If it is a pressure relief valve may be necessary. 

    Test to see if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to empty all the water from your storage tank. In order to do this shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet until the water stops running. Then check the pressure using a Digital Air Gauge for the best results.

    If you have a Missing or Bad Flow Restrictor verify your flow restrictor is still in place and has not been removed. If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

    A Faulty Pressure Switch can cause your pump to run continually. To test, close the ball valve on your Tank, then open the Faucet for a few seconds to depressurize the system, then close it. The Pump should activate, wait a minute or two for the unit to turn off and the pump should stop running. If the unit stops running you need to check if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank here. If the unit does not stop running then verify that your Pump Assembly is working properly. Perform the tests here to check your other electrical components.

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    Why Would There Only Be a Small Amount of Water in the Storage Tank?

    When Starting Up Your System whether it is for the first time or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

    Test to see if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to empty all the water from your storage tank. In order to do this shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet until the water stops running. Then check the pressure using a Digital Air Gauge for the best results.

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    Why Would There Be Low Water Flow From the Faucet?

    Test to see if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to empty all the water from your storage tank. In order to do this shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet until the water stops running. Then check the pressure using a Digital Air Gauge for the best results.

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    What Would Cause Water to Leak From Around the Blue or White Filter Housing?

    If your Housings are Not Tightened Properly it can cause a leak from your housing. Verify that the housings are tightened correctly. If you are still experiencing a leak you will need to check for Kinked or Missing O-Rings. Turn off the main water supply and release the pressure. If the O-Ring(s) is kinked you will need to replace it. Then use any Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.. Make sure the O-Ring is seated in the Filter Housing properly before re-installing the Filter Housing.

    If your Housing leaks at the top after changing your filters you may have Damaged/Dry O-rings. any Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage..

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    What Would Cause Hot Water Coming From the RO System?

    If you are receiving Hot Water from your Reverse Osmosis System then the RO System is too close to the hot water heater. Make sure the System is at least 25 Pipe Feet away from the hot water heater.

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    What Would Cause Leaking At The Adapt-A-Valve™?

    During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™ if you Used Teflon Tape on the Fitting you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was.Tightened With A Wrench rather than hand tightened this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

    Disconnect and Inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the Tubing Is Damaged you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is Square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to then you will need to replace it.

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    Why Would There Be Noise Coming From the Pump?

    The Booster Pump will vibrate causing the Pump to Vibrate Against Adjacent Objects when not in the optimum location. Make sure the pump is tight against the bracket.

    If the Pump Has Been Damaged it will need to be replaced.

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    Why Won't the Pump Turn On?

    You may not have Power To The Outlet. Make sure the electrical outlet is not controlled by the garbage disposal switch. If so switch to a different outlet.

    The Transformer May Be Burned Out due to the Pump trying to pull extra amperage because of Clogged Filters. If the pump is not working, test the Transformer to make sure it is outputting 24 volts, if it doesn't replace the transformer. If a volt tester is not available, disconnect the Transformer from the Pressure Switch and test it by connecting it directly to the Pump and then the Solenoid. If the pump does not run then the Pump may be bad. Test your Solenoid the same way, it should click for only a second confirming its working. Should both the Solenoid and Pump not receive power then you may have a bad transformer.

    Make sure all Electrical Connections are connected securely and not loose. These connections would include the Controller, Wire Harness, and Solenoid.

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    What Would Cause the Water to Have an Unpleasant Taste?

    An Unpleasant Taste can come from not Changing Your Filters on time. Performing the Annual Sanitization during the Annual Maintenance will help eliminate the Unpleasant Taste in the Water.

    If your Reverse Osmosis System has not been in use for an Extended Period of Time (More Than 2 Months) and you have not performed the Procedure for Extended Non-Use prior to your absence, then you will need to replace all filters and sanitize your system.

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    What Would Cause the Faucet to drip?

    If the faucet has Developed a Drip it can be corrected by following the steps outlined below.

    Step #1 - Remove faucet Spout first. Position both thumbs on the back edge of the lever and push forward.

    Step #2 - Lever will slide forward and completely off of the faucet base.

    Step #3 - Small brass tee can be turned ½ turn, counterclockwise, to adjust the tension on the black lever. This adjustment may be necessary to stop slow drips from tip of faucet. You may need to repeat the process until the faucet does not drip. Brass tee must always end up facing across body of faucet in order to slide black lever on.

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    Why Would the TDS Levels be High?

    The Reverse Osmosis System flushes out the waste/brine water to the Hot water Adapt-A-Valve™ under the sink. If this Adapt-A-Valve™ to the Hot Water Outlet is Turned Off this can cause your Membrane to go Bad, Clog your Filters, and Create Higher TDS Levels. Verify the Adapt-A-Valve™ is turned on and the pump is working properly

Watts Premier has laid out every piece of the installation for our ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis System. If you can't find the installation guide you are looking for our tech support agents will assist you. You can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

Caution - Not recommended for use on homes equipped with tank-less water heaters. Contact Premier for specific details regarding this unit and tank-less water heaters. System was tested in a laboratory setting utilizing a hot water heater of 40 gallons set at 120º F. Performance may vary if your heater is smaller than 40 gallons or set above 120º F, contact the manufacturer for additional details. System should not be used on homes equipped with a backflow prevention on the hot water heater. This device is 100% efficient, as no water is lost to drain in the production of the RO water.

Drill a Hole for the Reverse Osmosis Faucet

Non-Air-Gap Standard Faucet Installation

Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

Watts Premier ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis Installation

Starting Your Reverse Osmosis System

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    Drill a Hole for the Reverse Osmosis Faucet

    Caution - For Marble Counter Tops we recommend contacting a qualified contractor for drilling a hole. Most sinks are Pre-Drilled with a 1 ¼" diameter hole that you can use for your RO faucet. (If you are already using it for a sprayer or soap dispenser, see Step #1 below). Porcelain Sinks are extremely hard and can crack or chip easily. Use extreme caution when drilling. Watts accepts no responsibility for damage resulting from the installation of the faucet. A Diamond tip bit is recommended.

    Step #1 - Determine desired location for the RO faucet on your sink and place a piece of masking tape over where the hole is to be drilled. Mark the center of the hole on the tape.

    Step #2 - Using a variable speed drill set on the slowest speed, drill a ⅛“ pilot hole through both porcelain and metal casing of sink at the marked center of the desired location. Use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the drill bit cool (If drill bit gets hot it may cause the porcelain to crack or chip).

    Step #3 - Using a ¾” diamond tip hole saw, proceed to drill the large hole. Keep drill speed on the slowest speed and use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the hole saw cool during cutting.

    Step #4 - After drilling, remove all sharp edges and make sure the surroundings of the sink are cooled before mounting the faucet.

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    Non-Air-Gap Standard Faucet Installation

    The ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis System is equipped with a Non-Air-Gap Standard Faucet. There is no air-gap or monitoring in this faucet. To install follow the steps below:

    Step #1 - Place the escutcheon chrome plate and the black rubber washer on the faucet shank.

    Step #2 - Insert the faucet shank through the hole in sink and let it rest on the sink top.

    Step #3 - From the underside of the sink, slide on the locating washer, lock washer and brass nut onto the shank. Check orientation of faucet then tighten brass nut securely.

    Step #4 - Locate the ¼”- Blue Tube attached to the RO module labeled “Faucet”. Remove a brass nut, plastic sleeve and brass insert from the parts bag. To assemble, place the brass nut on the blue tube first, then the sleeve (small tapered end of sleeve must point to the end of tube) and then push the brass insert all the way into the end of the tube.

    Step #4 - Insert the ¼”- Blue Tube into the end of the faucet shank and use a wrench to tighten the brass nut securely.

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    Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

    Caution - Water supply line to the system must be from the cold water supply line only. Hot water will severely damage your system. Do not use Teflon Tape with the Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Step #1 - Turn off the cold water supply to the faucet by turning the angle stop valve completely off. Open cold water sink faucet to relieve pressure.

    Step #2 - Choosing the configuration that fits your plumbing, attach the Adapt-A-Valve™ as illustrated in the four photos below.

    Note - Make sure that the black collet is installed into the ¼” opening on the Adapt-A-Valve™. Don’t forget to install the white compression washer with the ⅜” configuration. Brass adapter does not need to be tightened with a wrench, only finger tight.

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    Watts Premier ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis Installation

    After completing the successful installation of your Non-Air Gap Standard Faucet and Adapt-A-Valve™ you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Watts Premier ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your New Reverse Osmosis System up and running.

    Step #1 - Locate the ¼” GREEN Tube attached to the RO Module. Insert the open end of the ¼” GREEN Tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

    Step #2 - Determine best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. Using the mounting holes on the bracket, mark the location for the mounting screws on the cabinet wall under the sink. In the parts bag, locate the two self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet at the marked location. Hang the module on the screws using the mounting holes in the bracket. Note - Do not cut any RO System Tubes at this Time.

    Step #3 - Using the white plastic union found in the parts bag, determine where the ¼” RED Tube from the RO faucet and the ¼” RED Tube from the RO membrane housing would join together comfortably. Cut red tube from RO faucet to length leaving a straight cut edge. Insert the red tube from RO faucet in one end of the white plastic union and the red tube from RO membrane housing in the other end. Use a ⅝” wrench to tighten both of the white plastic nuts securely.

    Caution - The Flow Restrictor is installed inside of the red tube at the bent end. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

    Step #4 - Locate the ¼” GREEN Tube attached to the RO Module. Insert the open end of the ¼” Green Tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the plastic water feed valve making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

    Step #5 - Teflon tape must be applied in a clockwise direction. Wrap (7 to 12 turns) around the male pipe threads (MPT) on the stainless steel fitting on top of the tank.

    Step #6 - Thread the quick connect ball valve (supplied in the parts bag) onto the stainless steel connector on the tank. Note - Do not over tighten the plastic connections.

    Step #7 - Position tank in desired location. Stand it upright or lay it on its side (using the black plastic stand). Measure the blue tube (marked “TANK”) from the RO module to the tank and cut it to length leaving a straight, square edge. Insert the tube into the quick connect fitting on the tank ball valve. Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

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    Starting Up Your New Reverse Osmosis System

    Step #1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary. (Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

    Caution - If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

    Step #2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

    Step #3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

    Step #4 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Watts Premier wants to make sure you are aware just because you cannot taste it, does not mean that it is not there. Contaminants such as Lead, Chromium and Arsenic are undetectable to the taste. Additionally, over time if you do not replace the filters, other bad tastes and odors will be apparent in your drinking water. It is important to change out your filters at the recommended intervals as indicated below. When replacing the filters, pay special attention to any cleaning instructions. If you have any questions throughout the process you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

 

System Overview

Changing The Filters

Changing The Membrane

Annual Sanitization

Check Air Pressure In The Tank & Re-Pressurize

Procedure for Extended Non-Use (More Than 2 Months)

 

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    System Overview

    Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as Arsenic, Chromium, Cryptosporidium or Giardia. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of Lead and Copper. This Premier ZeroWaste® Reverse Osmosis System has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your Reverse Osmosis System is a five stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

    Stage #1 - Five Micron Sediment Filter (104017) that traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommended Change Every 6 Month.

    Stage #2 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (101009) which helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced. Note - Recommended Change Every 6 Month.

    Stage #3 - 24 GPD (Gallons Per Day) RO Membrane (560014) the heart of your Reverse Osmosis System. This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, Sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as Chromium, Arsenic, Copper, Lead as well as Cysts, such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank. Note - Recommended Change Every 2 to 5 Years depending on your water quality.

    Stage #4 - In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (560010). This filter is used after the water storage tank, and is used as a final polishing filter. GAC filters are used to remove chemicals that give objectionable odors or tastes to water such as hydrogen sulfide (rotten eggs odor) or chlorine. Note - Recommended Change Every 12 Months.

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    Changing The Filters

    Note - The Filter Wrench (164003) may be purchased from Premier. This is a great tool to aid in twisting off the Filter Housings. (Not Required).

    When preforming your Bi-Annual System Maintenance you will be replacing your Sediment Filter (104017) and Carbon Block Filter (101009). Complete these same steps for the Annual System Maintenance. The only difference will be in addition to replacing your Sediment Filter (104017) and the Carbon Block Filter (101009) you will also be replacing your In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (560010). Note - Flush the first full tank after completing the Annual Maintenance.

    Step #1 - Place a towel under the RO module to catch any excess water that may drip out from the filters during the changeover.

    Step #2 - Close the Ball Valve. Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO at the feed water valve. (Follow the green tube away from the RO system to find the valve.)

    Step #3 - Open RO Faucet to depressurize system before attempting to remove Filter Housings, this may take a few minutes.

    Step #4 - For more leverage you may leave the RO module attached to wall of cabinet. If you are unable to access the module while it is mounted, remove it prior to changing Filters. Starting with the closest Housing 'Sediment', which is the one on the water inlet side (Green Tubing from the feed water valve), remove it by turning it clockwise (left). Empty all the water, then discard the filter. Continue on to the 2nd and 3rd Housings in order.

    Step #5 - Clean the Filter Housings with a mild soap solution and rinse with water. Check the O-rings and lubricate with one of the following: Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

    Caution - Before re-installing the Filter Housings back on to the system, check O-Rings to make sure they are still in place.

    Step #6 - Insert a new sediment Filter (cloth like appearance) into the 1st Filter Housing which is the one on the water inlet side (Green Tubing from the feed water valve) of the RO system and re-install housing.

    Step #7 - Insert the new Carbon Block Filter (White end caps & plastic netting) into the second and third Filter Housings and re-install Housings.

    Step #8 - Turn on the water supply to the unit at Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Step #9 - Keep the RO Faucet open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

    Step #10 - Close the RO Faucet and open tank ball valve.

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    Changing The Membrane

    Membrane - Your Membrane 560014 is only changed every 2 to 5 Years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the Reverse Osmosis System is used. This Reverse Osmosis Membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS).

    TDS - he water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS Meters available for purchase as well as a TDS Calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a Bi-Annual or Annual Filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the Reverse Osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

    Water Sample - You may send a water sample to Premier for a free diagnosis of your membranes performance. To send a water sample, use 2 clean containers and fill ½ cup of tap water in one container and ½ cup of RO water in another container. Clearly label each sample. Send the samples to 8716 W Ludlow Dr, Suite 1, Peoria, AZ 85381, Attention: “Water Samples”. Premier will test the water and mail or call you with the results.

    Step #1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO system.

    Step #2 - Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty.

    Step #3 - Disconnect the Green Tubing from the elbow on the end cap of the membrane housing.

    Step #4 - Removing The Membrane - Remove the end cap from the membrane housing by turning it counter clockwise to loosen.

    Step #5 - Removing The Membrane - Using a pair of pliers, grip the PVC tube of the RO membrane and pull firmly on the membrane to remove from the housing and discard.

    Step #6 - Installing The Membrane - Lubricate the O-rings on the new membrane with a water soluble lubricant such as KY Jelly® or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage. Insert the end with the two black O-rings on the PVC tube first into the housing.

    Step #7 - Installing The Membrane - Once membrane has been inserted into the housing you must take your thumbs and give a firm push to properly seat the membrane. Replace membrane housing cap and tighten.

    Step #8 - Installing The Membrane - Re-attach the green tube to the elbow fitting on the end cap of the membrane housing.

    Step #9 - Start up your system. See Installations for Instructions.

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    Annual Sanitization

    Note - If you have connected your Reverse Osmosis System to a Refrigerator or Ice Maker, make sure the connection has been turned off. Do Not re-open the connection until the sanitization process is completed. You will need ¼ cup (60mL) of common household bleach.

    Step #1 - Remove the RO Membrane from its housing and rest it in a clean sanitary place. Replace the cap onto the empty membrane housing and re-connect the Green Tubing.

    Step #2 - Leaving the Filters out, replace Stage 2 and 3 empty Filter Housings hand tightened onto the unit. Measure and pour ¼ cup of common household bleach into Stage 1's Filter Housing and hand tighten onto unit.

     

    Step #3 - With the RO Faucet in the closed position turn on the incoming water supply to the system by turning the Adapt-A-Valve™ counter clockwise. Let the unit fill with water approximately 8 minutes) allowing the bleach to dilute.

    Step #4 - Let the system sit idle for 1 minute.

    Step #5 - Drain the system completely.

    Step #6 - Let the system fill again (approximately 8 minutes) and sit idle for 10 minutes before draining the system again.

    Step #7 - Turn off the incoming water at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the Faucet to make sure all the water has been drained.

    Step #8 - Open the membrane housing and re-install the RO membrane while making sure not to kink the O-rings. Refer to Membrane Replacement section. Tighten the cap back on the housing and reconnect Green Tubing.

    Step #9 - Remove a 3 Filter Housings and empty water. Note - Before re-installing the Filter Housings back onto the system, check the O-Rings to make sure they are still in place. Lubricate with Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

    Step #10 - Insert the new Sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the first Filter Housing, which is the one on the water inlet side (Green Tubing from the Adapt-A-Valve™) of the RO system and re-install the Housing. Repeat this these steps for the second and third Housings using new Carbon Block Filters.

    Step #11 - The In-Line Final Filter is located on the Blue Tube between the storage tank and the RO Faucet. Remove it by loosening the compression fittings on both ends of the Filter and replace with a new Filter. (Discard the used Final Filter after sanitizing). Note - The arrow on the final filter must be pointing towards the RO faucet / away from the RO storage tank.

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    Check Air Pressure In The Tank & Re-Pressurize

    Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

    Step #1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the Reverse Osmosis System.

    Step #2 - Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the Faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

    Step #3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results a Digital Air Pressure Gauge (161000) or Tire Pressure Gauge is recommended.

    Step #4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to Re-Pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

    Caution - It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) prior to Re-Pressurizing your tank.

    Note - If their is air and sputtering coming from the faucet or water coming out of the Schrader Valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

    Step #5 - Start up your system. See Installations for Instructions.

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    Procedure for Extended Non-Use (More Than 2 Months)

    To prepare your Reverse Osmosis System for your extended leave follow the below steps to ensure your RO System will perform as it did prior to you leaving.

    Step #1 - Unplug transformer from electrical outlet.

    Step #2 - Turn off the hot and cold water valves to your RO system and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all the filter cartridges (order not important). Place the filters into a sealed plastic bag and store in the refrigerator. Note - Do Not Place In Freezer

    To restart your Reverse Osmosis System follow the below steps.

    Step #3 - Reinstall all filters onto the Reverse Osmosis System.

    Step #4 - Turn on the incoming hot and cold water angle stop valves.

    Step #5 - Turn both of the Adapt-A-Valves™ on and check the system for leaks and tighten fittings as necessary. Note - Check daily over the next week to ensure no leaks are present.

    Step #6 - Plug in the transformer into the electrical outlet.

    Caution - If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

    Step #7 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

    Step #8 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

    Step #9 - After the Tank has filled, open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.