501026 - ZeroWaste®
Retro Fit Kit

Product Manual (PDF)

Watts Premier has made it simple for you to find the resolution to your problem. Find the issue you are experiencing here and we will walk you through step-by-step to resolve it. If you are unable to locate the issue you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

 

What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Pump Won't Turn Off?

Why Would There Be Noise Coming From the Pump?

Why Won't the Pump Turn On?

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    What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Pump Won't Turn Off?

    Any Crimped Tubing can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary replace the tubing.

    With High Water Pressure make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 85 psi. If it is a pressure relief valve may be necessary. 

    Test to see if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to empty all the water from your storage tank. In order to do this shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet until the water stops running. Then check the pressure using a Digital Air Gauge for the best results.

    If you have a Missing or Bad Flow Restrictor verify your flow restrictor is still in place and has not been removed. If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

    A Faulty Pressure Switch can cause your pump to run continually. To test, close the ball valve on your Tank, then open the Faucet for a few seconds to depressurize the system, then close it. The Pump should activate, wait a minute or two for the unit to turn off and the pump should stop running. If the unit stops running you need to check if you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank here. If the unit does not stop running then verify that your Pump Assembly is working properly. Perform the tests here to check your other electrical components.

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    Why Would There Be Noise Coming From the Pump?

    The Booster Pump will vibrate causing the Pump to Vibrate Against Adjacent Objects when not in the optimum location. Make sure the pump is tight against the bracket.

    If the Pump Has Been Damaged it will need to be replaced.

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    Why Won't the Pump Turn On?

    You may not have Power To The Outlet. Make sure the electrical outlet is not controlled by the garbage disposal switch. If so switch to a different outlet.

    The Transformer May Be Burned Out due to the Pump trying to pull extra amperage because of Clogged Filters. If the pump is not working, test the Transformer to make sure it is outputting 24 volts, if it doesn't replace the transformer. If a volt tester is not available, disconnect the Transformer from the Pressure Switch and test it by connecting it directly to the Pump and then the Solenoid. If the pump does not run then the Pump may be bad. Test your Solenoid the same way, it should click for only a second confirming its working. Should both the Solenoid and Pump not receive power then you may have a bad transformer.

    Make sure all Electrical Connections are connected securely and not loose. These connections would include the Controller, Wire Harness, and Solenoid.

Watts Premier has laid out every piece of the installation for our ZeroWaste® Retro Fit Kit. If you can't find the installation guide you are looking for our tech support agents will assist you. You can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

Caution - Not recommended for use on homes equipped with tank-less water heaters. Contact Premier for specific details regarding this unit and tank-less water heaters. System was tested in a laboratory setting utilizing a hot water heater of 40 gallons set at 120º F. Performance may vary if your heater is smaller than 40 gallons or set above 120º F, contact the manufacturer for additional details. System should not be used on homes equipped with a backflow prevention on the hot water heater. This device is 100% efficient, as no water is lost to drain in the production of the RO water.

Installation Prep

Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

Brine Connection

Connecting to Your 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis System

Connection to Your Cartridge Reverse Osmosis System (RO Pure/Pure Plus)

Starting Up Your Reverse Osmosis System

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    Installation Prep

    Step #1 - Before you complete any installation steps you need to prepare your system for installation. Turn off the hot and cold water supply at the angle stops.

    Step #2 - Lift the handle on your Reverse Osmosis Faucet to drain the water from the System.

    Note - If the tank is equipped with a Ball Valve, close the Valve to preserve Tank Water.

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    Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

    Caution - Water supply line to the system must be from the cold water supply line only. Hot water connection is used for rinse water return and must be connected for your System to function correctly. Do not use Teflon Tape with the Premier Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Step #1 - Turn off the hot water supply to the faucet by turning the angle stop valve completely off. Open hot water sink faucet to relieve pressure.

    Step #2 - Choosing the configuration that fits your plumbing, attach the Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Note - Make sure that the black collet is installed into the ¼” opening on the Adapt-A-Valve™. Don’t forget to install the white compression washer with the ⅜” configuration. Brass adapter does not need to be tightened with a wrench, only finger tight.

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    Brine Connection

    Step #1 - Disconnect the existing brine tube from the membrane. Make sure to also remove the existing flow restrictor from your system. The existing brine tube will no longer be used.

    Note - Part of this upgrade will include switching your existing flow restrictor with one provided with this kit.

    Step #2 - Determine which Flow Restrictor to use based on the table below.

    Step #3 - Connect the open end of the red Flow Restrictor tube to the Check Valve - make sure the tube is ¾" into the check valve.

    Step #4 - Connect the ¼” RED Tube with the Flow Restrictor insert into the Brine Port of the System.

    Step #5 - Connect the ⅜” Black Tube from the new Check Valve/Flow Restrictor assembly to the hot water Adapt-A-Valve™.

    Step #6 - Disonnect the Tube to the Drain Saddle. This Drain Tube will no longer be used.

    Step #7 - Insert the plug into the Drain Saddle.

Membrane Flow Restrictor
24 GPD Membrane 500 ml Flow Restrictor (Red Tube with Green Insert)
36 GPD Membrane 500 ml Flow Restrictor (Red Tube with Green Insert)
50 GPD Membrane 700 ml Flow Restrictor (Red Tube with Purple Insert)
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    Connecting to Your 5-Stage Reverse Osmosis System

    Step #1 - All electrical connections are color coded for your convenience. Plug the wire harness into the pump and solenoid.

    Step #2 - Connect the pressure switch to the Wire Harness.

    Step #3 - Connect the transformer to the pressure switch.

    Step #4 - Remove the existing Automatic Shut-off Valve.

    Step #5 - Install the Booster Pump and Solenoid between the third stage Filter Housing and the cap of the Reverse Osmosis Membrane (if needed, use provided ¼” GREEN Tube).

    Step #6 - Connect the red Flow Restrictor Tube into the Brine Elbow.

    Step #7 - Connect the open end of the ⅜” Black Tube into the Adapt-A-Valve™ connected to the hot water shut-off.

    Step #8 - Splice the Pressure Switch on the line leading to the Tank.

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      Connection to Your Cartridge Reverse Osmosis System (RO Pure/Pure Plus)

      Step #1 - All electrical connections are color coded for your convenience. Plug the wire harness into the pump and solenoid.

      Step #2 - Connect the pressure switch to the Wire Harness.

      Step #3 - Connect the transformer to the pressure switch.

      Step #4 - Remove the existing Automatic Shut-off Valve.

      Step #5 - Install the Booster Pump and Solenoid between the third stage Filter Housing and the cap of the Reverse Osmosis Membrane (if needed, use provided ¼” GREEN Tube).

      Step #6 - Install the provided Elbow to the Brine Port on the Filter Module. (Please remove any existing Elbows and/or Flow Restrictors).

      Step #7 - Connect the red Flow Restrictor Tube into the Brine Elbow.

      Step #8 - Connect the open end of the ⅜” Black Tube into the Adapt-A-Valve™ connected to the hot water shut-off.

      Step #9 - Splice the Pressure Switch on the line leading to the Tank.

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      Starting Up Your New Reverse Osmosis System

      Step #1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary. (Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

      Caution - If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #5) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

      Step #2 - Plug the transformer into the electrical outlet and let the System run for two minutes and check for leaks.

      Step #3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly). If the water does not begin to trickle out within 10 minutes, check your connections and the direction of flow through the pump.

      Note - Throughout the course of the next 5 days check the the system periodically for any leaks.

      Step #4- Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

      Step #5 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.