WP521934 - WP-ST6DM
Troubleshooting

  • Troubleshooting
  • Installation
  • Maintenance

Premier has made it simple for you to find the resolution to your problem. Find the issue you are experiencing here and we will walk you through step-by-step to resolve it. If you are unable to locate the issue you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?

If you have Low Water Pressure it can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need (Water Pressure Tester).If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different Booster Pumps if your home water pressure is low.

Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

 

To test whether you have High or Low Pressure in the Tank, you will need to follow the below instructions.

Step 1 - Shut off the main water supply and open the RO Faucet to completely drain the water from your tank.
Step 2 - Check the air pressure using a Digital Air Pressure Gauge (WP161000) for the best results. The results should be between 5 to 7 psi.

Issue 1 - If the pressure is below 5 or at 0 psi, you could have a bad tank. Re-pressurize the tank and check periodically over the next few weeks to verify it is holding pressure.
Issue 2 - If the pressure is above 7 psi, release the excess pressure in the tank so that it is between 5 to 7 psi.

 

If you have a Missing or Bad Flow Restrictor, you will need to verify it is still in place and has not been removed. Otherwise, you will need to replace it.

Step 1 - Turn off your incoming water and Ball Valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO Faucet to relieve pressure on the system.
Step 3 - Remove the unit from the wall.
Step 4 - Once you no longer hear any water running down the drain, remove the Red Drain Line from the membrane housing and inspect the end of the tube.

75 GPD Membrane - You should see a Purple cap with a small offset hole inside the end of the tube.

Issue 1 - If the flow restrictor is damaged or missing you will need to replace it.

 

Any Crimped Tubing can cause Low / Slow Water Production. make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary replace the tubing.

 

A Damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause Low / Slow Water Production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. Before beginning the ASOV test, (check the air pressure in your tank) and (verify that your flow restrictor is installed). If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, follow the below steps to test your ASOV. If both the tank and flow restrictor pass, then follow one of the 2 tests below depending on whether you have a Tank Ball Valve or a Tank Tee on your WP-ST6DM System.

 

Tank Ball Valve

Option 1 - To Quickly Test the ASOV

Step 1 - Turn the System on and run the RO Faucet until you hear the water going down the drain.
Step 2 - Close the faucet and turn off the tank valve on top of the tank.
Step 3 - Wait 2 to 5 minutes for the draining to stop. If the draining stops, more than likely there is an issue with the tank pressure or the filters. If the System does NOT stop draining after 5 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Issue 1 - If the draining stops, there may be an issue with the tank pressure or the filters.
Issue 2 - If the draining does NOT stop after 10 minutes, you will need to replace the ASOV (WP610141).

Items to prepare:

Ꙩ Towel

Ꙩ Measuring Cup

 

Option 2 - Test the Production of the Membrane

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply and the tank ball valve.
Step 2 - Open the RO faucet to relieve System pressure.
Step 3 - Remove the Blue tube from the tank and set it into a liquid measuring cup.
Step 4 - Turn on the incoming water supply; with the tank valve turned off you should see water trickling from the Blue tube.
Step 5 - Collect water for approximately 1 minute and then turn the incoming water supply off.

Note - You should collect the below amounts of water based on the Membrane size you have installed in your system.

75 GPD Membrane - If you have collected 6 to 8 ounces of water your ASOV is functioning correctly.

Issue 1- If you collect less than your Membrane’s water collection rate, this is an indicator that you will need to replace your filters and/or membrane.
Issue 2- If you get more than your Membrane’s water collection rate you may need to replace the ASOV (WP500069).

Step 6 - Reinstall the Blue tube to the tank and turn on the incoming water.

Note – Amounts may vary based upon incoming water pressure. The listed amounts are based upon the suggested incoming water pressure of 60 psi. Check your system for the next 24 hours to make sure you do not have any leaks.

What Would Cause Milky Colored Water?

If you have Air In The System it can cause Milky Colored Water. This is a normal occurrence with the initial start up of a Reverse Osmosis System. This milky look will disappear during normal use, normally within 1 to 2 weeks. If this condition reoccurs after your filter change, drain the tank 1 to 2 times.

What Would Cause the Water to Constantly Run or the Unit to Not Shut Off?

If you have Low Water Pressure it can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure the water supply is turned on and the feed water valve is all the way open. To check your water pressure you will need (Water Pressure Tester).If you are using city water you can also contact* your water utility company and ask for the average water pressure supplied to your area. The suggested water incoming pressure is 60 psi, however, you will want to insure a minimum of 40 psi. Premier sells a couple different Booster Pumps if your home water pressure is low.

*Note – This will be an estimation and not necessarily accurate for your specific household. If after all other testing you are still having issues, it is recommended to test your water pressure with a water pressure gauge.

 

Any Crimped Tubing can cause Low / Slow Water Production. Make sure that all the tubing is straightened out as much as possible. If necessary replace the tubing.

 

With High Water Pressure make sure that your incoming water pressure does not exceed 100 psi. If it is a pressure relief valve may be necessary.

 

To test whether you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

 

To test for a Missing or Bad Flow Restrictor. you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

 

A Damaged ASOV (Automatic Shut-Off Valve) can cause Low / Slow Water Production as it will cause the tank to not fill properly. To test for a damages ASOV you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

Why Would There Only Be a Small Amount of Water in the Storage Tank?

When Starting Up Your System whether it is for the first time or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

 

If you have

When Starting Up Your System whether it is for the first time or after your system maintenance, it can take up to 4 to 6 hours for the tank to fill.

 

To check whether or not Low Water Pressure, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

 

To test whether you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

Why Would There Be Low Water Flow From the Faucet?

To test whether you have High or Low Air Pressure in the Tank, you will need to follow the step-by-step instructions located in (What Would Cause Low / Slow Water Productions?).

What Would Cause Water To Leak From Around The Blue Or White Filter Housing?

If your Housings are Not Tightened Properly it can cause a leak from your housing. Verify that the housings are tightened correctly. If you are still experiencing a leak you will need to check for Kinked, Damaged, Dry or Missing O-Rings.

Step 1 - Place a towel under the RO System to catch any excess water.
Step 2 -

Tank Ball Valve - Turn off the incoming water to the System and close the ball valve. Open the RO Faucet to depressurize the system.
Tank Tee - Turn off the incoming water to the System. Open the RO Faucet until the tank is drained completely.

Step 3 - Remove the filter housings and check each O-Ring. If any of the O-Rings are kinked you will need to replace them.
Step 4 - Make sure the O-Rings are seated in the Filter Housing properly before re-installing the Filter Housing. Use any Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used.

Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can cause damage.

What Would Cause Leaking At The Adapt-A-Valve™?

During the installation of your Adapt-A-Valve™ if you Used Teflon Tape on the Fitting you will end up with a leak at the Adapt-A-Valve™. If the fitting was. Tightened With A Wrench rather than hand tightened this could also have caused damage during installation. You will need to uninstall the Adapt-A-Valve™ and determine whether the fittings are repairable. If not you will need to replace the damaged fitting.

 

Disconnect and Inspect the tubing connected to your Adapt-A-Valve™. If the Tubing Is Damaged you will need to cut off all the damage to the end of the tubing, making sure that the cut is Square. If you do not have enough to re-connect the good tubing to then you will need to replace it.

Why Would My Filter Housing Have No Water In It?

Your Reverse Osmosis System is connected directly to the Main Water Supply. If the Main Water Supply is Turned Off you will have no water flowing into your system. Verify your Main Water Supply is turned on and there is water.

Premier has laid out every piece of the installation for our WP-ST6DM Reverse Osmosis System. If you can't find the installation guide or video you are looking for our tech support agents will assist you. You can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

Drill A Hole For The Reverse Osmosis Faucet

Caution - For Marble Counter Tops we recommend contacting a qualified contractor for drilling a hole. Most sinks are Pre-Drilled with a 1 ¼" diameter hole that you can use for your RO faucet. (If you are already using it for a sprayer or soap dispenser, see Step #1 below). Porcelain Sinks are extremely hard and can crack or chip easily. Use extreme caution when drilling. Watts accepts no responsibility for damage resulting from the installation of the faucet. A Diamond tip bit is recommended.

Step 1 - Determine desired location for the RO faucet on your sink and place a piece of masking tape over where the hole is to be drilled. Mark the center of the hole on the tape.

Step 2 - Using a variable speed drill set on the slowest speed, drill a ⅛“ pilot hole through both porcelain and metal casing of sink at the marked center of the desired location. Use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the drill bit cool (If drill bit gets hot it may cause the porcelain to crack or chip).

Step 3 - Using a 1 ¼” diamond tip hole saw, proceed to drill the large hole. Keep drill speed on the slowest speed and use lubricating oil or liquid soap to keep the hole saw cool during cutting.

Step 4 - After drilling, remove all sharp edges and make sure the surroundings of the sink are cooled before mounting the faucet.

Standard Faucet Installation

The WP-ST6DM 6-Stage Reverse Osmosis System is equipped with a standard Faucet. There is no air-gap or monitoring on this faucet. To install follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Place the escutcheon chrome plate and the black rubber washer on the faucet shank.

Step 2 -Insert the faucet shank through the hole in sink and let it rest on the sink top.

Step 3 -From the underside of the sink, slide on the locating washer, lock washer and brass nut onto the shank. Check orientation of faucet then tighten brass nut securely.

Step 4 - Locate the ¼” Blue tube in the parts bag and remove the brass nut, plastic sleeve and brass insert. To assemble, place the brass nut on the ¼” Blue tube first, then the sleeve (small tapered end of sleeve must point to the end of tube) and then push the brass insert all the way into the end of the tube.

Step 5 - Insert the ¼” Blue tube into the end of the faucet shank and use a wrench to tighten the brass nut securely.

Adapt-A-Valve™ Installation

Caution - Water supply line to the system must be from the cold water supply line only. Hot water will severely damage your system. Do not use Teflon Tape with the Adapt-A-Valve™.

Step 1 - Turn off the cold water supply to the faucet by turning the angle stop valve completely off. Open cold water sink faucet to relieve pressure.

Step 2 - Choosing the configuration that fits your plumbing, attach the Adapt-A-Valve™ as illustrated below.

Note - Make sure that the black collet is installed into the ¼” opening on the Adapt-A-Valve™. Don’t forget to install the white compression washer with the ⅜” configuration. Brass adapter does not need to be tightened with a wrench, only finger tight.

Adapt-A-Valve Install

Drain Saddle Installation

Caution - If you have a garbage disposal, do not install the drain saddle near it. Installation of the drain saddle must be either above the garbage disposal, or if a second sink drain is available, install it above the cross bar on the second drain. Installation of the drain saddle near a garbage disposal may cause the drain line to plug. If no other installation of drain line is available, Premier offers drain line installation kit (WP164020) that can be used with garbage disposals.

Step 1 - The small square black foam gasket with a circle cut out of the middle must be applied to the inside of the drain saddle. Remove sticky tape backing and stick to the drain saddle as shown.

Step 2 - The drain saddle must be installed at least 1 ½” above the nut of the P-Trap elbow or cross bar from the garbage disposal to insure proper drainage. Using the ¼” drill bit, drill into the drain pipe at best available location as specified above, for drain saddle installation.

Caution - Take extreme caution to only drill through one side of the drain pipe. Do not over tighten the screws. It may crack the drain saddle.

Step 3 - Assemble the drain saddle around the drain pipe and align drain saddle fitting opening with the hole drilled in the previous step - you may use a small screwdriver to feed through the drain saddle into the drain pipe to aid with the alignment. Using a Phillips screw driver tighten the drain saddle bolts evenly and securely on both sides.

Caution - The black ⅜” drain tube must be as SHORT and STRAIGHT as possible to the drain saddle, making a downward slope from faucet to drain saddle to allow for proper drainage. This is a gravity fed line and if there is any bend or dip in the tube, the rinse water will not flow into the drain properly. Water may back up and come out the air gap hole in the back of the faucet.

Step 4 - Measure the ⅜” Black tube from faucet to the drain saddle on the drain pipe and make a straight cut to the correct length.

Step 5 - Connect the black tube to the open quick connect fitting on the drain saddle by pushing the tube all the way to the tube stop.

Premier WP-ST6DM Reverse Osmosis Installation

After completing the successful installation of your Standard Faucet, Adapt-A-Valve™ and Drain Saddle you are prepared to finish the remainder of the installation for your Premier WP-ST6DM RO. Follow these steps to complete the installation and get your New Reverse Osmosis System up and running.

Step 1 - Locate the ¼” Green tube in the parts bag. Insert the one end of the ¼” Green tube Firmly into the elbow fitting attached to the left side of the Lid Assembly. Use a ⅝" wrench to tighten the white plastic nut securely.

Step 2 - Insert the open end of the ¼” Green tube into the open ¼” quick connect fitting on the Adapt-A-Valve™ making sure the tube is pushed in all the way to the tube stop.

Step 3 -Determine best location for the RO module to be mounted to allow for future system maintenance. Using the mounting holes on the bracket, mark the location for the mounting screws on the cabinet wall under the sink. In the parts bag, locate the two self tapping screws. Using an electric drill with a Phillips bit, screw them into the cabinet at the marked location. Hang the module on the screws using the mounting holes in the bracket. Note - Do not cut any RO System Tubes at this Time.

Caution - The Flow Restrictor is inside of the red tube installed at the Membrane elbow. DO NOT REMOVE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR OR CUT THE RED TUBING AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE FLOW RESTRICTOR.

Step 4 -Thread the plastic ball valve onto the tank fitting. Note - Do not apply Teflon tape to fitting. Do not over tighten or the valve could crack.

Step 5 - Locate the remaining ¼” Blue tube in the parts bag. Insert one end Firmly into the tee fitting attached to the left side of the In-Line GAC Final Filter. Use a ⅝" wrench to tighten the white plastic nut securely.

Step 6 - Position tank in desired location. Insert the open end of the ¼” Blue tube from the RO System Firmly into the Tank Ball Valve. Use a ⅝" wrench to tighten the white plastic nut securely. Note - Set the blue ball valve knob in-line with the blue tube, this is the “open” position.

Step 7 - Locate the ¼” Blue tube attached to the RO Faucet. Insert the tube Firmly into the ¼" open fitting on the right side of the In-Line GAC Final Filter. Use a ⅝" wrench to tighten the white plastic nut securely.

Starting Your Reverse Osmosis System

Step 1 - Turn on the incoming cold water at the angle stop valve and the Adapt-A-Valve™. Check the system for leaks and tighten any fittings as necessary. (Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present).

Caution - If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until flushing (Step #4) is complete and the tank has been allowed to fill completely. Connection from the RO to the ice maker system should have an in-line valve installed before the ice maker so it can easily be closed to prevent water flowing to the ice maker during start up and periodic maintenance. Your storage tank must be allowed to fill up fully in order for the ice maker system to work properly.

Step 2 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (this may take a few minutes and the water will come out slowly).

Step 3 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 3 to 6 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure. Note - During the fill period you may hear water trickling which is a normal occurrence.

Step 4 - After the storage tank has filled open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. Repeat this step two more times. The fourth tank can be used for drinking. Note - Flushing of the tank 3 times is only necessary during the initial startup and after replacing the membrane. The flushing process should take about a day to complete.

Premier wants to make sure you are aware just because you cannot taste it, does not mean that it is not there. Contaminants such as Lead, Chromium and Arsenic are undetectable to the taste. Additionally, over time if you do not replace the filters, other bad tastes and odors will be apparent in your drinking water. It is important to change out your filters at the recommended intervals as indicated below. When replacing the filters, pay special attention to any cleaning instructions. If you have any questions throughout the process you can contact us at 1-800-752-5582 or email us at WeCare@WattsWater.com and we will get back with you as soon as possible.

 

System Overview

Water quality concerns are becoming more of a focus for the public. You may have heard about contaminants in the drinking water such as Arsenic, Chromium, Cryptosporidium or Giardia. There may also be some local water issues such as high levels of Lead and Copper. This Premier WP-ST6DM Reverse Osmosis System has been designed and tested to provide you with high quality drinking water for years to come. The following is a brief overview of the system. Your Reverse Osmosis System is a six stage RO which is based upon separate treatment segments within the one complete water filtration system. These stages are as follows:

Stage 1 - Five Micron Sediment Filter (WP104017) that traps sediment and other particulate matter like dirt, silt and rust which affect the taste and appearance of your water. Note - Recommended Change Every 6 Months.

Stage 2 & 3 - Five Micron Carbon Block Filter (WP101009) which helps ensure that chlorine and other materials that cause bad taste and odor are greatly reduced. Note - Recommended Change Every 6 Months.

Stage 4 & 5 - Two 75 GPD (150 Gallons Per Day Combined) RO Membrane (WP560020). This semi permeable membrane will effectively remove TDS, Sodium and a wide range of contaminants such as Chromium, Arsenic, Copper, Lead as well as Cysts, such as Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Because the process of extracting this high quality drinking water takes time, your RO water treatment system is equipped with a storage tank This Reverse Osmosis Membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS). Note - Recommended Change Every 3 to 5 Years.

Stage 5 - In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (WP560010). This filter is used after the water storage tank, and is used as a final polishing filter. GAC filters are used to remove chemicals that give objectionable odors or tastes to water such as hydrogen sulfide (rotten eggs odor) or chlorine. Note - Recommended Change Every 12 Months.

Filter Kits

Bi-Annual Carbon Block Filter Kit - WP560002 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP104017), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010).

Bi-Annual GAC Filter Kit - WP560066 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP104017), two GAC Pre-Filters (WP100036), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010) with a Standard Filter Wrench.

Bi-Annual Carbon Block Premium Filter Kit WP560067 - This kit contains one Sediment Filter (WP104017), two Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101009), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010) with a Standard Filter Wrench.

Annual 7 Pack Filter Kit - WP500024 - This kit contains two sediment Filter (WP104017), four Pre-Carbon Filter (WP101009), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010).

Annual Green Block Filter Kit - WP560022 - This kit contains two sediment Filter (WP104017), four Green Pre-Carbon Filters (WP101020), and one Inline Post-Carbon Filter (WP560010).

Changing The Filter Cartridges

Note - The Filter Wrench (WP164003) may be purchased from Premier. This is a great tool to aid in twisting off the Filter Housings. (Not Required)

 

When preforming your Bi-Annual System Maintenance you will be replacing your Sediment Filter (WP104017) and both Carbon Block Filters (101009). Complete these same steps for the Annual System Maintenance. The only difference will be in addition to replacing your Sediment Filter (WP104017) and both Carbon Block Filters (WP101009) you will also be replacing your In-Line Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) Filter (WP560010). Note - Flush the first full tank after completing the Annual Maintenance.

Step 1 - Place a towel under the RO module to catch any excess water that may drip out from the filters during the changeover.

Step 2 - Close the Ball Valve. Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO at the feed water valve. (Follow the green tube away from the RO system to find the valve.)

Step 3 - Open RO Faucet to depressurize system before attempting to remove Filter Housings, this may take a few minutes.

Step 4 - For more leverage you may leave the RO module attached to wall of cabinet. If you are unable to access the module while it is mounted, remove it prior to changing filters. Starting with the closest Filter Housing 'Sediment', which is the one on the water inlet side (Green tubing from the feed water valve), remove it by turning it clockwise (left). Empty all the water, then discard the filter. Continue on to the 2nd and 3rd Filter Housings in order.

Step 5 - Clean the Filter Housings with a mild soap solution and rinse with water. Check the O-rings and lubricate with one of the following: Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

Caution - Before re-installing the Filter Housings back on to the system, check O-Rings to make sure they are still in place.

Step 6 - Insert a new sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the 1st Filter Housing which is the one on the water inlet side (Green tubing from the feed water valve) of the RO system and re-install housing.

Step 7 - Insert the new Carbon Block filter (White end caps & plastic netting) into the second and third Filter Housings and re-install Filter Housings.

Step 8 - Turn on the water supply to the unit at Adapt-A-Valve™.

Step 9 - Keep the RO faucet open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 10 - Close the RO faucet and open tank ball valve.

Changing The Membrane

3Membrane - Your Membrane (WP560018) is only changed every 3 to 5 Years, depending on the incoming water conditions and the amount the Reverse Osmosis System is used. This Reverse Osmosis Membrane is critical for effective reduction of total dissolved solids (TDS).

TDS - The water output should be tested periodically to verify that the system is performing satisfactorily. Premier does have TDS Meters available for purchase as well as a TDS Calculator for you to monitor your TDS levels. Premier recommends replacing the membrane when TDS reduction falls below 75%. Normally, a membrane would be replaced either during a Bi-Annual or Annual Filter change. However, if at any time you notice a reduction in water production or an unpleasant taste in the Reverse Osmosis water, it could be time to replace the membrane.

Changing the Membrane

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the RO system.

Step 2 - Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty.

Step 3 - Disconnect the Green tubing from the elbow on the end cap of the membrane housing.

Step 4 - Removing The Membrane - Remove the end cap from the membrane housing by turning it counter clockwise to loosen.

Step 5 - Removing The Membrane - Using a pair of pliers, grip the PVC tube of the RO membrane and pull firmly on the membrane to remove from the housing and discard.

Step 6 - Installing The Membrane - Lubricate the O-rings on the new membrane with a water soluble lubricant such as KY Jelly® or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage. Insert the end with the two black O-rings on the PVC tube first into the housing.

Step 7 - Installing The Membrane - Once membrane has been inserted into the housing you must take your thumbs and give a firm push to properly seat the membrane. Replace membrane housing cap and tighten.

Step 8 - Installing The Membrane - Re-attach the Green tube to the elbow fitting on the end cap of the membrane housing.

Step 9 - Repeat the above steps for the second membrane.

Step 10 - Start up your system. See Installation for Instructions.

Annual Sanitization

Note - If you have connected your Reverse Osmosis System to a Refrigerator or Ice Maker, make sure the connection has been turned off. Do Not re-open the connection until the sanitization process is completed. You will need ¼ cup (60mL) of common household bleach.

Step 1 - Remove the RO Membrane from its housing and rest it in a clean sanitary place. Replace the cap onto the empty membrane housing and re-connect the Green tubing.

Step 2 - Leaving the Filters out, replace Stage 2 and 3 empty Filter Housings hand tightened onto the unit. Measure and pour ¼ cup of common household bleach into Stage 1's Filter Housing and hand tighten onto unit.

Step 3 - With the RO faucet in the closed position turn on the incoming water supply to the system by turning the Adapt-A-Valve™ counter clockwise. Let the unit fill with water approximately 8 minutes) allowing the bleach to dilute.

Step 4 - Let the system sit idle for 1 minute.

Step 5 - Drain the system completely.

Step 6 - Let the system fill again (approximately 8 minutes) and sit idle for 10 minutes before draining the system again.

Step 7 - Turn off the incoming water at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the faucet to make sure all the water has been drained.

Step 8 - Open the membrane housing and re-install the RO membrane while making sure not to kink the O-rings. Refer to the Membrane Replacement section. Tighten the cap back on the housing and reconnect Green tubing.

Step 9 - Remove a 3 Filter Housings and empty water. Note - Before re-installing the Filter Housings back onto the system, check the O-Rings to make sure they are still in place. Lubricate with Food Grade Lubricant (i.e. Olive Oil); Water Soluble Lubricant (i.e. KY Jelly®) or other water based lubricants may be used. Caution - Petroleum based lubricants (i.e. Vaseline®) MUST NOT BE USED as they can do damage.

Step 10 - Insert the new Sediment filter (cloth like appearance) into the first Filter Housing, which is the one on the water inlet side (Green tubing from the Adapt-A-Valve™) of the RO system and re-install the Filter Housing. Repeat this these steps for the second and third Filter Housings using new Carbon Block Filters.

Step 11 - The In-Line Final Filter is located on the Blue tube between the storage tank and the RO faucet. Remove it by loosening the compression fittings on both ends of the Filter and replace with a new Filter. (Discard the used Final Filter after sanitizing). Note - The arrow on the Final Filter must be pointing towards the RO Faucet / away from the RO storage tank.

Check Air Pressure In The Tank & Re-Pressurize

Note - Check the air pressure only when the tank is empty of water. Check air pressure in the storage tank when you notice a decrease in available water from the RO system. Air can be added with a bicycle pump using the schrader valve that is located on the lower side of the tank behind the blue plastic cap. Follow the steps below:

Step 1 - Turn off the incoming water supply to the Reverse Osmosis System.

Step 2 - Open the RO Faucet and allow water to drain from the tank until it is completely empty. Note - When water from the RO faucet slows to a trickle, with the faucet still in the open position, you may add air to the tank to purge any left over water, this will ensure that the tank is completely empty.

Step 3 - Once all water in the tank is purged, check air pressure using an air pressure gauge, it should read between 5 to 7 psi. For best results a Digital Air Pressure Gauge (161000) or Tire Pressure Gauge is recommended.

Step 4 - If your tank is not set between 5 to 7 psi, you will want to Re-Pressurize the tank using a tire pump or other means which will not rupture the bladder.

Caution - It is not recommended to use an air compressor as it is to easy to rupture the bladder in your tank. If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) prior to Re-Pressurizing your tank.

Note - If their is air and sputtering coming from the faucet or water coming out of the Schrader Valve, that is an indication that the bladder in the tank has ruptured. You will need to replace the tank.

Step 5 - Start up your system. See Installations for Instructions.

Procedure For Extended Non-Use (More Than 2 Months)

To prepare your Reverse Osmosis System for your extended leave turn off the water supply to your RO system at the Adapt-A-Valve™ and open the RO faucet to drain the storage tank. Once the storage tank is empty, remove all filter cartridges (order not important). Place them into a sealed plastic bag and store in your refrigerator. Note - Do Not Place In The Freezer. To restart your Reverse Osmosis System follow the below steps.

Step 1 - Re-install all filters on to the RO unit. Filters are color coded to match the filter heads they snap in to.

Step 2 - Turn on water supply to the system at the Adapt-A-Valve™. Note - Check frequently over the next 24 hours to ensure no leaks are present.

Caution - If you have connected your RO system to a refrigerator / ice maker, make sure the ice maker is off (do not allow water to flow to the ice maker) until the tank has been allowed to completely fill.

Step 3 - Open the RO faucet and leave it open until water begins to trickle out (it will come out slowly).

Step 4 - Close the RO faucet allowing the storage tank to fill with water. It may take 2 to 4 hours to fill the tank completely depending on the production capability of the membrane, local water temperature and water pressure.

Step 5 - After the Tank has filled, open the RO Faucet to flush the tank completely. You will know that the tank is empty when the flow rate from the RO faucet is down to a trickle. The second tank can be used for drinking.