Low or Slow Water Production:
This may be caused by low air pressure in storage tank, low water pressure, crimps in the tubing, clogged pre-filters, or a fouled membrane.
How to check the pressure in your tank:
- Shut off the incoming water to the RO unit at the Adapt-a-Valve.
- Turn on (open) your RO faucet and leave in the Open Position.
- Locate the valve on the tank (usually just below label there is a blue cap sticking out, remove cap) - attach a bicycle pump to the valve and start pumping - as you are pumping air into the tank you will see the water begin to flow out of the faucet. Keep pumping until no more water comes out the faucet (Do Not Overfill The Tank With Air)
- Once all the water is out of the tank, you will need to check how much air you've pumped into the tank using a Digital Tire Gauge. You will need to set the air pressure to 5 to 7 lbs.
- Once pressure is set; close faucet & turn the water supply back on. Allow 4 - 8 hours for tank to refill.
** NOTE: If you are hooked to your ice maker or refrigerator you will want to make sure you have the water to those units turned off in order to get the tank to pressurize and fill.
- Check your incoming water pressure
- Check each fitting to see if the water flows at the proper rate to that point. After you pinpoint the exact place the water stops or slows down considerably, contact the customer service department for troubleshooting support and possible warranty replacement.
- If you hooked your new unit up to tee off and supply water to your ice-maker, be sure the ice-maker is in the off position when the tank is trying to fill. (Each ice-maker line should have a ball valve installed on it so that you can close it whenever the water in the storage tank has been depleted. The back pressure is needed to let the tank fill.)
Milky Colored Water:
This is caused by air in the system. This is a normal occurrence with the start-up of a Reverse Osmosis System. The milky look will disappear with normal use during the first 1-2 weeks. This condition can also happen after filter changes, but can usually be solved by draining the tank 1 or 2 times.
Water Constantly Running (Won't Shut Off)
This may be caused by low water pressure, a crimp in the supply line, or high water pressure. If the water pressure is below 40 psi, a booster pump may be necessary.
If there are crimps in the tubing, straighten or repair them as necessary.
If the water pressure is above 85 psi, a pressure relief valve may be necessary. These are available online or by calling us at 1-800-752-5582
Noise From The Faucet Or Drain:
This can be caused by the air gap faucet, the location of the drain saddle, a restriction in the drain tube, or water pressure in excess of 85 psi. Some noise is caused on start-up or after filter changes by air being purged from the system. Once the air is expelled from the unit (usually after about 5 minutes) this noise should subside.
Although the air-gap faucet inherently makes some noise, this can be amplified if the water running from the drain saddle splashes into the water in the sink trap. This noise can be reduced by either moving the drain saddle to a greater height, or by securing a fishing line through the drain saddle and down into the sink trap, allowing the water to run down the side of the drain pipe.
A restriction in the drain tube can be caused by debris from the dishwasher or garbage disposal. The tube can be unclogged by removing it and cleaning it with a wire or coat hanger.
If the water pressure is above 85 psi, a pressure regulator may be required.
Faucet Leaks From Air Gap:
This can be caused by a crimp in the drain line, a restriction in the drain line, or a clogged drain tube. If there is a crimp in the drain line, check and straighten out the tubing.
If the drain line is not straight, it can cause leakage from the faucet. Remove the drain line, check for blockage (which can be removed with a coat hanger) and make sure the connection between the drain and drain saddle is as short and straight as possible. The drain line can be trimmed if there are any dips or loops where water might settle.
The drain line can also become clogged by the dishwasher, garbage disposal, or even the impurities removed by the RO unit. To fix this, disconnect the line and clean it out with a wire before re-connecting
Minimal Water In Storage Tank:
This can be caused by system start-up, low water pressure, excessive air in the water tank bladder, or a faulty check valve. If the system is just starting, wait 6-10 hours for the tank to fill. Low water temperatures and pressures can also reduce the production rate.
If the water pressure is below 40 psi, a booster pump may be necessary. These are available from us either online or by calling 1-800-752-5582.
Excessive air in the tank bladder or air cushion can squeeze the space designed for the water. Using a tire pressure gauge, check to see that the pressure is between 5 and 7 psi (tank should be free of any water). If the pressure is higher, bleed the tank air until it is at the 5 and 7 psi pressure level. This test should only be done when the tank is empty.
A faulty check valve can also cause a small amount of water in the tank. To check this, do not use any water from the RO unit for 24 hours, and then check the water flow to the drain in the morning before any water flows through the house. If the water is still draining, consult us at (800) 752-5582.
Water Tastes Or Smells Funny:
Leaks From Unit Or Filter Bowls:
Leaks can be caused by loose fittings, a missing, damaged, or improperly seated O-Ring, or an improperly inserted plastic ferrule on the brass fitting. If the fittings are not tightened, then carefully re-tighten the fittings.
If the O-ring is missing or damaged you can order new ones online or by calling (800) 752-5582.
If the O-Ring is out of round, make sure the O-Ring is properly lubricated and inserted into its housing before replacing the housing.
If the plastic ferrules are inserted backwards, remove and re-orient them, making sure the tapered end points toward the valve.